Silky ride
David Evans
A Carpet Ride to Khiva:
Seven Years on the Silk Road
By Christopher Aslan
Alexander. Icon Books. Pages 336. £8.99.
THE British author
Christopher Alexander travelled to Khiva, an ancient Silk Road outpost
in northwest Uzbekistan, to work for a Swedish NGO, and ended up
making the place his home. Immersing himself in the country’s
language and culture, he became fascinated by kilims (hand-woven rugs)
and established a workshop in a disused madrasa (school) to help
revive age-old weaving techniques cast aside during the Soviet era. He
soon found himself exporting his rugs around the world and tangling
with corrupt officials greedy for bribes.
Alexander’s account of
his seven years in Uzbekistan is less a travelogue than it is an
object lesson in staying put. Aside from sorties to Tashkent, and the
odd hair-raising trip into neighbouring Afghanistan in search of
carpet dyes, the book is set almost entirely in Khiva’s desert
oasis, lending it a richness rare in travel writing. By turns funny
and moving, this excellent memoir evokes the joys and frustrations of
life in a country "marooned somewhere between Mohammad and
Marx".
— By arrangement
with The Independent
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