food talk
Sweet-and-sour delight
Pushpesh Pant Pushpesh Pant

UNRIPE mangoes have an irresistible allure in the summers. Be it aam ka panna, the traditional thirst-quencher or the chutney paired with mint and green coriander the aperitif and accompaniment are trustworthy aides commonly encountered to ward off dreaded heatstroke.

It is the main course prepared with ambiya that is an almost extinct recipe. We recall the flavourful aam ka kaliya we were served long ago in Lucknow and the slightly tangy kairi ki daal that our friend Muhammad Farouk cooked so well but we digress. Little did we know that in rural Rajasthan kairi ki sabzi is regularly cooked in summer. It's refreshing, quickly fixed and is recommended for its cooling properties. Do try it at least once as the mercury shoots up!

Kairi ki sabzi


Unripe mangoes 500 g

Garlic paste 1 tsp

Haldi powder tsp

Dhaniya powder 1-1/2

Kalaunji seeds 1 tsp

Lal mirch powder (optional) tsp

Gur 100 g

Oil 3 tbsp

Salt to taste


Wash the mangoes well and cut in small pieces-smaller than you would for preparing pickle. Heat oil in a pan and when it reaches smoking point reduce flame to medium and put in the kalaunji seeds followed by the mango pieces after a few seconds. Now add the garlic paste stir well and put in the powdered spices, along with the salt dissolved in half a cup of water. Grate or crumble the gur and sprinkle all over, stir to blend and cook till gurh melts to drape the mango pieces lightly in a sauce-like "gravy" and the mangoes are done but retain a bite. Kairi in this avatar is equally enjoyable hot or cold we mean at room temperature with roti, parantha or steamed rice and maybe a bowl of dahi.

The dish has a strong visual resemblance with the Gujarati gur-kairi pickle but make no mistake belongs decidedly to the sabzi baradri.