Story of rise and decline of a township
Pul Kanjri was once a thriving place
Lahore and Amritsar have always shared a deep and organic connection. During the era of Sarkar-e-Khalsa, Sher-e-Punjab Maharaja Ranjit Singh ruled his kingdom from both these cities. He frequently travelled between Lahore and Amritsar. While his journeys were driven by his deep religious devotion to Darbar Sahib, administrative responsibilities also required him to spend long periods at his summer palace in Amritsar.
On many occasions, Maharaja Ranjit Singh would begin his journey a day in advance. Before entering Amritsar, he would halt near Modhe-Dhanoye village, located on the northern side of Attari, along the banks of the Badshahi Canal. On the Lahore-facing right bank of the canal stood a beautifully constructed baradari and a large tank. Separate bathing enclosures had been created within the tank for men and women, reflecting the thoughtful planning of the time.
In those days, this settlement, later known as Pul Kanjri, was a thriving township. A large and bustling market operated here, attracting traders from far-off places, who came to buy and sell goods. Whenever the Maharaja camped at this spot, the entire area took on the atmosphere of a fair. Artistes, performers and craftsmen would arrive from distant regions to display their skills before the ruler, hoping to earn royal patronage and rewards.
However, time brought dramatic change. With the death of the Maharaja in 1839 and the fall of the Khalsa Raj in 1849, the region began to lose its prominence. The once-vibrant marketplace slowly faded into quietness. Local residents recall that remnants of the old bazaar still existed until 1947, even though many traders had already migrated to larger urban centres like Lahore and Amritsar.
Before Partition, the majority of Pul Kanjri’s population was Muslim. In 1947, amid the upheaval of Partition, these families migrated across the border to Pakistan. Being situated extremely close to the international boundary (barely 600 m), many departing residents reportedly dismantled their own homes, carrying away even bricks with them. Today, only a handful of houses remain from the pre-Partition era, occupied mainly by farming families.
Though Pul Kanjri no longer echoes with the grandeur and festivity of Sher-e-Punjab’s time, it still occasionally draws visitors, especially those heading to witness the daily retreat ceremony at the Attari-Wagah border. Quiet and overlooked, Pul Kanjri stands as a silent witness to the rise and decline of a once-flourishing township, carrying layers of shared history between Amritsar and Lahore.
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