Keep glowing

Dr Vikas Sharma

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We, in India, have an unfair obsession for a lighter, fairer skin. Products promising to lighten the face, body and armpits are available all across the country, with skin-whitening creams and lotions claiming to pick up where the other cosmetics left off! Last year, Indians reportedly consumed 293 tonnes of skin-whitening products, spending more money on them than on soft drinks! Topical skin lightening creams and lotions often contain chemical agents such as:

• Hydroquinone
• Steroid: Mometasone
• Steroid : Fluocinolone
• Azelaic Acid
• Glycolic Acid
• Plant extracts that can help in skin lightening when applied topically include:
• Licorice extract
• Arbutin
• Oral supplements that help in skin lightening include:
• Glutathione
• Grape seed extact
• Vitamin C

Dermatological procedures that are used for skin lightening in selective indications only include:

• Microdermabrasion
• Chemical peels: Glycolic Acid, Alpha Hydroxy Acid, Lactic Acid
• Lasers

However, all the above mentioned skin lightening agents and procedures can be harmful if not done under supervision of a specialist dermatologist. So, exercise caution before starting such treatments. Such fairness creams and products can bring skin whitening or redness over the dark areas, but only for a transient period after which the skin actually turns darker than it originally was! And can also bring problems of unwanted hair, acne, skin-thinning et al. Hydroquinone is a strong inhibitor of melanin production. It has been banned in some European countries because of fears of a cancer risk. Due of hydroquinone's action on the skin, it can be irritant, particularly in higher concentrations of 4% or greater and predictably when combined with tretinoin.

Many skin whiteners contain toxic mercury such as mercury chloride or ammoniated mercury as the active ingredient. Skin lightening creams can cause:

• Thinning of skin
• Excessive facial hair growth
• Permanent skin bleaching
• Uneven colour loss, leading to a blotchy appearance
• Redness
• Intense irritation
• Contact dermatitis

(Dr Sharma is a Chandigarh-based dermatologist)