‘Chevalier’ Federico Peliti and Carignano

Raaja Bhasin

When I was little, one of parents’ favourite places for a picnic or a weekend was Carignano in Mashobra, just outside Shimla. 

Packed and spilling on my father’s Lambretta scooter, we would go to this old bungalow. My parents would go for long walks and I would paint the most awful landscapes while my little sister looked adoringly (as I would like to imagine) or not-so-admiringly (which was probably truer), on. 

There was no electricity and the rooms were lighted with kerosene lamps and the water heated in wood-burning ‘hamams’.

It was only in later years, that I learnt more about the place and its association with the remarkable Federico Peliti.In India, the few who have heard of Peliti know of him as a 19th century hotelier, chef and confectioner, who popularised western-style confectionery (cakes, pastries, chocolates), in the country through his restaurants and cafés. That apart, he was an exceptional photographer with a fine eye and refined technique – and these combined to create some extraordinary compositions of various parts of India.

Peliti was born in 1844 in the small town of Carignano, near Turin in Italy; this is the name he gave his estate in Mashobra. His family had engineers, builders and architects. Federico studied sculpture and graduated in 1865. His native Turin was already supplying fine confectionery to various royal houses of Europe and when Peliti turned his attention to this, his magnificent decorations had sophisticated ‘architectural cakes’ with finely crafted Gothic structures. One of his famous creations was an elaborate cake adorned with a figure of Queen Victoria and the backdrop was of a tall spire.

These were years, when the cuisine at the grand tables of aristocrats and princes of Europe was undergoing a change. Large servings of a limited number of dishes had given way to small portions and numerous courses. Tables were set with fine linen, china and silver. When Lord Mayo was appointed as the Viceroy of India in 1869, he wanted the finest of chefs and confectioners that Europe had to offer. One reason for this may have been to counter the tastes of India’s princes and perhaps, influence them with European ideas. Mayo found his chef in Paris and then, held a competition in Turin for a confectioner. Peliti won and joined the viceroy’s staff. In 1872, Lord Mayo was assassinated in Port Blair. On the death of the viceroy, Peliti decided to go into business on his own in India.

As a result, Regent House on Shimla’s Mall held the elegant ‘Peliti’s Café’ and even found mention in several writings – including those of Rudyard Kipling. Then, Peliti purchased the premises of the ‘New Club’, which had come up on the site of Bentinck’s Castle, which, in turn, was the first permanent residence of Governor-General in Shimla. Here, he built the large Grand Hotel. For his own use as suburban retreat, he built the Villa Carignano in Mashobra. In 1920, Peliti sold the Mashobra property that was built on the lines of an Italian manor to the United Services Club. This later burnt down and a single storied bungalow replaced this. As with the other estates of the United Services Club, when it wound up in Shimla after independence, Carignano passed into the hands of the government and was managed by the Municipal Corporation. This may have also had to do with the fact that Carignano has a huge tank that still supplies water to Shimla. Peliti’s Grand Hotel also was destroyed by a fire in 1922.

Peliti’s businesses were very successful and he employed several hundred people. One of his specialties was to create elaborate banquets in the absence of any facilities in the most difficult of places. Tables, chairs, linen, tableware and all ingredients and utensils would be transported for miles, if necessary.

In 1899, he received the title of Chevalier from the French government. Through his years in and around Shimla, Kolkata and other places in India, Peliti also photographed extensively and at one time, his descendents wanted to gift the collection to India, preferably to Shimla, but a suitable place was not found.

Some years ago, I met Letizia, the great granddaughter of Federico. Over the years, we have kept in touch. Her son-in-law has revived some of the old recipes that had been developed in India. This includes the once famous ‘Peliti Vermut’, which was prepared for the Prince of Wales, when he toured India in 1875-76; the Prince went on to become Britain’s King Edward VII. The recipe of the ‘vermut’ (vermouth, fortified wine) prepared by Peliti included Indian spices. This mulled wine won gold medals at the international exhibitions of Turin and Paris. By the Second World War, both Peliti and his wines were largely forgotten, but the secret recipes remained and have been revived. 

(The writer is an author, historian and journalist)