The Khanuja Family Collection gives a peek into the splendour of Kashmir shawl

A vibrant upshot of Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s progressive reforms was patronage of the arts, resulting in not just Punjab flourishing as a centre for cultural and artistic activities, but profoundly influencing the production and popularity of Kashmir shawls. During his rule, these shawls became highly coveted items, embodying luxury and sophistication, and became symbols of high fashion and status in Europe, particularly in France and Britain, where these adorned the wardrobes of the elite. Giving a glimpse of the times and the finesse of the craft is ‘Pashmina Jewels: The Khanuja Family Collection of Kashmir Shawls’ by Frank Ames.Kashmir shawl, Sikh period, c 1835.As the name suggests, the book is based on the collection of the Khanuja family based in Phoenix, US. An oncologist by profession, Dr Parvinderjit Singh Khanuja and his family began as a collector of coins two decades ago, but nurtured a strong fascination for collecting Sikh-related artefacts along the way.Dr Khanuja says his journey as a collector took an inspiring turn when he came across textile expert Frank Ames’ book, ‘Woven Masterpieces of Sikh Heritage’. “Reading it was a moment of revelation, and soon after, I had the honour of meeting Frank himself. I realised then that I was in the presence of a true expert on Kashmir shawls, a man who has dedicated much of his life to studying these exquisite artefacts.”Under Frank’s guidance, Dr Khanuja curated a diverse collection of Kashmir shawls, with a particular focus on those from the Sikh period. The two have now collaborated on this book.In the Introduction, Frank calls the Khanuja Family Collection “a treasure trove of Indian Kashmir shawls”, a vibrant narrative spanning three centuries of exquisite craftsmanship. “These shawls, intricately woven with the traditional kani technique, whisper tales of the ancient Himalayan landscapes that envelop the valley.”Pashmina Jewels: The Khanuja Family Collection of Kashmir Shawls by Frank Ames and Parvinderjit Singh Khanuja. Roli Books. Rs 3,995Frank says the collection is important because under Ranjit Singh’s patronage, the Kashmir shawl experiences a renaissance, infusing it with an eclectic array of exotic patterns. “This collection, therefore, marks a key moment, shedding light on a neglected chapter of the subcontinent’s history, a revelation long overdue.”For Frank, recognising the Kashmir shawl’s importance is to acknowledge the tragic fragility of ancient cultures and how in the blink of an eye the past may vanish into oblivion. “As a symbol of wealth and opulence in India, few textiles command as much respect as the Kashmir shawl.”He writes how its migration to Europe quietly succeeded via the British in the late 18th century, followed by the French by means of the returning officers of Napoleon’s Egyptian campaigns (1798–1801). If to be draped in glistening pashmina was the ultimate dream of the aristocracy and landed gentry, its origins remained a mystique. “Pashmina from goats grazing at 5,000 metres had never before been known to the West!” Historian Jean-Marie Lafont writes in the Foreword how Ranjit Singh’s French army generals took a keen interest in Kashmir shawls and engaged in extensive trade with France, taking the exquisite craft to the European markets.Besides examples from the Mughal, Afghan and Dogra periods, this volume unveils the exciting splendour of Sikh weavings from a transformative period in Kashmir’s artistic saga. The resonance of Sikh design extends far beyond textiles, casting its influence across diverse crafts worldwide.

The Khanuja Family Collection gives a peek into the splendour of Kashmir shawl

A new book tells the storied tale, marked by opulence and intricacy of design

Tribune News Service

The Khanuja Family Collection gives a peek into the splendour of Kashmir shawl

A new book tells the storied tale, marked by opulence and intricacy of design

Tribune News Service

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