Bridal couture 2020

Gurnaaz Kaur

Reinventing the saree Shyamal and Bhumika

Celebrity designer duo Shyamal and Bhumika is known to have revived India’s precious crafts and created a couture collection relevant to modern sensibilities.

“In this new decade, we’re digging into our archives and exploring the history of Indian crafts. For us, 2020 begins with revival as we put out a capsule collection entirely focusing on the saree. The trend we’re focusing on, rather we’re creating, is reviving and reinventing this garment and presenting it to the modern Indian woman,” sayShyamal and Bhumika.

Of unique motifs and textures: This time around they have played with embroidery threads. Unique motifs have been created which draw inspiration from ceiling frescoes and facades from 15th century paintings and architecture, besides vintage European tapestry and decorative pillars from the Mughal era. “We have used a mix of material — silk threads, zari, velvet appliqués, crystal accents, tulle, quilted textures, layered embroideries, sequin, etc. to create interesting textures,” they say.

Blouse gets a twist: Extravagant cuts, necklines and fancy sleeves narrate the story of the modern bride. “For the elegant and sophisticated new-age bride, we’ve played with the blouse. We have created modern silhouettes with puff sleeves, off-shoulder blouses, bell-sleeves and cap sleeves. These lend a contemporary twist to the classic saree silhouette,” say Shyamal and Bhumika.

From the colour palette: The shade card includes a range of pastel colours, juxtaposed with rich tones of emerald, royal blue, maroon and aubergine. Red remains an all-time Indian favourite but powder pink and ivory are among the colours that brides are wearing.

Dressing up for D-day: A pastel-coloured lehenga for the mehndi with a ruffled blouse. An ivory lehenga for the sangeet and an emerald green lehenga with a peach dupatta for the wedding.

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Grandeur’s the word Varun Bahl

The couturier of flowers says this is the year of maximalism. Varun Bahl’s latest collection, The Dancing Paisley is “grander than ever”. He says, “The collection draws inspiration from the Garden of Paradise and employs delicate maximalism to tell a story. We’ve loved using the traditional Indian paisley and juxtaposing it with our signature floral motifs featuring minimal intricate embroidery, broken kalis, incomplete motifs depicting the paradoxical beauty. The embroidery techniques employed use traditional gold zari, dabka, metal sequins combined with strong and differentiating sumptuous textures, rich shading, metallic accents that together create a visual delight.”

A delicate balance: The wedding wear creates a balance between traditional ensemble and more contemporary, flowing silhouettes, says Varun. “The cape and lehenga set, for instance, has been created for the bride who wants to celebrate without being held back by the heaviness of her garment. For those going in for traditional attire, we have used fabric like velvet and raw silk to give a majestic look.”

An eclectic mix: The colour palette this time is ethereal. An eclectic mix of ivory, gold, coral and hint of mint green. The richer colours of traditional reds, mustard and tones of yellow are forever.

What to wear and when: For a mehndi ceremony, which is usually a daytime affair, a cape and lehenga set in tones of mustard or mint green would be ideal. For a sangeet or cocktail, the ease to move freely and dance is best managed with a lehenga. Fabrics like velvet in rich tones are a great option. For a reception, nothing like a classic saree. For new-age brides, the silhouette can be dramatised with sensual cholis.

Digital’s the way Amit Aggarwal

Known for introducing a new language of craftsmanship, this year’s bridal couture for Amit Aggarwal is eclectic. “The new-age bride is experimental and believes in customising her outfit. Her search for the perfect wedding dress does not end with the prettiest lehenga at a designer store. She understands the newness of what couture could mean and brings out something very original, true to her inherent aesthetics and liking.”

Glam it up with metal: The trends ruling this season are glam, bold accents of metallic colours, says Amit. “Overall, a great a fit, a bodycon kind of outfit can be interesting but keeping it grand and opulent with layers. Volume is the highpoint for this season. The biggest trend is the evolution of the saree drape or the drape per say; mixing it up with contemporary shapes, ideas and structuring details,” he adds.

Graphics rule the fabric: Amit has been associated with engineering innovative designs. Instead of going in for conventional zardozi and metal yarns, he is known to have used recycled polymer stripes to create abstract patterns on tulle lace, organza. And this time again, the designer suggests go graphic. “In embroideries, the traditional, heavy workmanship of embroideries through zardozi, metal wire work is a passé. The new-age brides want to feel light and airy, probably effervescent on their special day. Weighing their ensemble down with tons and tons of embroidery and workmanship is an outdated idea,” says Amit.

Blend in the colours: A great blend of emerald, teal, petrol with a very electric blue, almost dissecting the peacock colours but at the same time classic in terms of its natural metallic colours like gold, silver or even rose gold and ivory for that matter.

Get set for the party: Mehndi would be a stunning gown in pastel with an accent of a bright colour, in a light and breezy fabric. Cocktail should be high on glam — something that is close to your body but also flairs out. Wedding would be a beautiful hand-done technique, an interesting new silhouette, instead of just the six kali or eight kali lehenga. Keep the blouse or upper exciting. You can experiment by replacing your dupatta with a cape.