Chef Dr Izzat Husain curates achari gosht masala, once the sustaining food of caravans centuries ago, for the modern palate

For centuries, whenever raw mangoes, green chillies, or seasonal vegetables needed to be preserved for months, Indian kitchens turned to achar masala — a powerful blend of spices revered for their natural anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-microbial properties. In India, achar is not merely a condiment; it is an ancient science of preservation.

At the heart of this achar masala are five guardian spices: fenugreek (methi dana), fennel (saunf), onion seeds (kalonji), carom seeds (ajwain), and turmeric. Together, they not only prevent spoilage but also release the deep, earthy aroma that defines Indian pickles.

Born from this wisdom was achari gosht — the original travel food of India. In ancient times, it sustained caravans crossing deserts, hunting parties in forests, armies on military campaigns, and nobles on long pleasure journeys. The achar masala protected the meat from spoiling, while the spices kept the body warm, aided digestion, and helped ward off illness on the road.

While traditional achari gosht was robust and heavy, often slow to digest, I have curated this historic dish for the modern palate. Slow-cooked tender mutton is infused with freshly roasted and coarsely ground achar masala, balanced with mustard oil, curd, and a hint of jaggery to soften the tang. The precise ratio of ajwain and fennel makes it especially digestive, while turmeric and fenugreek contribute anti-inflammatory and gut-healing benefits.

Unlike old caravan recipes that sat heavy on the stomach, this lighter masala marinade and slow-dum cooking allow the spices to release their oils without making the dish greasy or difficult to digest. The final tempering of kalonji and whole green chillies in mustard oil gives it that unmistakable achar punch — sharp, piquant, and unforgettable.

Achari gosht masala, as we know it today, is part of this edible heritage — a dish that once nourished warriors and is now served to connoisseurs. It offers a perfect balance of taste, tradition, and wellness. It pairs best with roomali roti, khameeri naan, or steamed sona masoori rice. The gosht can easily be replaced with paneer to create another masterpiece: Achari paneer masala.

This traditional achari spice blend from our royal kitchen is used across all achari recipes — vegetarian as well as non-vegetarian. We also use the same spice mix to prepare pickles such as aam achar and mirchi achar. Here, I am sharing my recipes of achari gosht masala and achari paneer masala, along with my special achari masala. Hope you enjoy it!

Achari Masala

Ingredients

Fennel (saunf) — 100 gm

Mustard seeds (sarson) — 50 gm

Onion seeds (kalonji) — 50 gm

Fenugreek seeds (methi dana) — 50 gm

Cumin (jeera) — 50 gm

Amchoor powder — 100 gm

Carom seeds (ajwain) — 50 gm

Red chilli — 50 gm

Turmeric — 15 gm

Black salt — 35 gm

Common salt — 100 gm

Rock salt — 65 gm

Method

Mix all the spices together. Lightly roast them, then grind to a fine powder. Store in an airtight bottle and use as required.

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Achari Gosht Masala

Ingredients

Mutton (boneless, cut into cubes) — 1 kg

Tomato puree — 200 gm

Ginger-garlic paste — 30 gm

Fresh green chilli (finely chopped) — 30 gm

Cooking oil — 200 gm

Barista (pre-fried sliced onion) — 15 gm

Achari masala — 20 gm / 5 tsp

White vinegar — 10 ml

For thick gravy

Roasted chana powder — 10 gm

(Soaked in 100 ml water)

Amul cream — 100 gm

For garnish

Coriander

leaves (finely chopped) — 4 tsp

Ginger juliennes — 2 tsp

Green chillies — 2 tsp

Method

Prepare the marinade: Place the washed and cubed mutton in a bowl. Add the achari masala, vinegar, and 20 gm oil. Mix well and set aside for 90 minutes.

Heat the remaining oil in a pan. Add the barista and sauté until golden brown, if not already browned. Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chilli, and sauté for a few minutes. Add the tomato puree and cook for four to seven minutes. Then add the marinated mutton and stir well.

Cover and cook on low heat for about 40 minutes, or until the mutton turns tender.

Once the mutton is cooked, add the soaked chana powder paste and cook for a few more minutes. Turn off the heat, add the cream, and allow it to rest for five to 10 minutes.

Achari gosht is ready to serve. Enjoy hot with steamed rice or your choice of Indian bread.

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Achari Paneer Masala

Ingredients

Cottage cheese (paneer) — 500 gm

Curd — 200 gm

Tomato puree — 200 gm

Ginger-garlic paste — 30 gm

Fresh green chilli (finely chopped) — 30 gm

Cooking oil — 200 gm

Barista — 15 gm

Achari masala — 4 tsp

Amul cream — 100 gm

For garnish

Coriander leaves (finely chopped) — A sprig

Ginger juliennes — 1 tsp

Green chillies (chopped) — 2 tsp

Method

To prepare the marinade, cut the cottage cheese into desired-sized cubes and fry until golden.

In a bowl, combine the achari masala with a little warm water. Add the fried paneer, mix well, and set aside for 20 minutes. Add 20 gm oil to the marinade as well.

Heat a pan and add the remaining oil. Add the barista and sauté until golden brown, if not already browned. Add the ginger-garlic paste and green chilli, and sauté for a few minutes. Add the curd and mix well. Then add the tomato puree and cook for four to seven minutes. Add the marinated paneer and stir gently.

Cover and cook on low heat for about 10 minutes. Turn off the heat, add the cream, and let the dish rest for five to 10 minutes.

Achari Paneer Masala is ready to serve. Enjoy hot with steamed rice or your choice of Indian breads.

— Chef Dr Izzat Husain, a Unani physician and celebrated Mughlai chef from the royal family of Awadh, blends traditional Awadhi and Mughlai cuisine with nutritious cooking techniques. He’s author of ‘Izzat Ka Khana’