The incredible diversity of Odia food

From temple kitchens to tribal huts, from royal feasts to humble village thalis, Odia cuisine encompasses a vast array of flavours, styles, and ingredients.

Grains and staples: Rice is the cornerstone of most meals in Odisha. It is eaten in many forms — Bhaata (plain steamed rice), Pakhaala (fermented rice soaked in water), Kanika (sweetened and spiced rice), and also as the base for Pithaas (rice cakes). Millets like Mandiaa (ragi) and Bajraa (pearl millet) have been traditionally used, especially in tribal and Western Odisha. Lentils, especially Moong and Arhar, are key to dishes like Dalma, the flagbearer of Odia dishes.

Vegetables: Odisha’s love for vegetables is unmatched. Starting from pumpkin, raw banana, yam, papaya, eggplant, ridge gourd, to leafy greens like Sajana saaga and Koshala, dishes like Dalma (lentils cooked with vegetables), Santulaa (lightly sautéed or boiled vegetables), and Besara (vegetables in mustard-paste gravy), showcase a balance of taste and nutrition of vegetables.

Temple cuisine: The Mahaprasad of Puri’s Jagannath Temple is the spiritual heart of Odia food. Bhoga or Prasad, prepared without onion and garlic, is offered to the deity daily and served to devotees. Cooked over wood fires in earthen pots, this sacred food is an embodiment of purity, and devotion. The recipes of temple cuisine have influenced household cooking across the state. One aspect of the temple cuisine is the exclusion of vegetables such as potatoes, tomatoes, and cabbage. These are considered ‘foreign’ introductions and therefore not part of the temple’s traditional food.

Non-vegetarian delights: Fish and seafood are central to the coastal Odisha diet. Maachha Besara (fish in mustard gravy), Chingudi Rasaa (prawns in a lightly spiced sauce), and Kankadaa Jhola (crab curry) are regional favourites. Inland regions enjoy mutton and chicken dishes like Maansa Aloo Jhola (mutton curry with potatoes), another popular Odia dish. Despite the presence of meat, dishes remain light with minimal oil and spice, focusing on the freshness of the ingredients.

Tribal cuisine: The tribal communities of Odisha have their own food traditions, passed down through generations. These include the use of wild tubers, mushrooms, sal leaves, mahua flowers, smoked and sun-dried meat, bamboo shoots, and wild herbs. The communities practise a form of sustainable cooking, relying on what nature offers during each season. Their foods are rich in nutrition and rooted in ritual.

Sweets and desserts: Odia sweets are mostly milk-based and gently sweetened. Chhenaa Poda (burnt cottage-cheese cake), Rasagolaa (soft cheese balls in sugar syrup), Rasaabali (flattened cheese patties in thickened milk), and Kheeri (rice pudding) are all-time favourites. Many other sweets like Khira Gajaa, Sarsatiaa, Palua Ladoo, and Feni Khajaa also add to the culinary staples.

Snacks and street food: Odisha’s cities are known for their vibrant and flavourful street food culture. Snacks such as Dahibaraa Aloodum, crispy Chaul Baraa (rice fritters), sweet Gulgulaa (fried wheat balls), spicy Piaaji (onion fritters), the hearty Mudhi Maansa (puffed rice with mutton curry), and the crunchy Aanta Pakudi (fried gram flour crisps) are everyday indulgences. These humble yet inventive dishes reflect a blending of time-tested ingredients with modern tastes, offering a delightful glimpse into Odisha’s evolving urban food scene.

Pakhaala  (Recipe by Sweta Biswal)

During the scorching summer months, Pakhaala is the dish of preference, thanks to its hydration and the cooling comfort. This traditional preparation of fermented rice, soaked in water, is rich in probiotics. Often served in Kansaa (bell-metal) bowls, Pakhaala is a staple that is typically paired with sides like Saaga Bhajaa (sautéed greens), Paaga (mashed spiced vegetables), and crispy Badi Churaa and fish or Sukhuaa (dried fish). The emphasis is on nourishment with an effort to beat the heat. What elevates Pakhaala is its garnish, curd, green chillies, crunchy shallots, and crushed mango ginger. Together, they create a medley of tang, spice, and aroma. Pakhaala is Odisha’s time-tested remedy for summer fatigue and a true comfort food.

Cooking time: 45 minutes ( 10 hours of fermentation)

Makes: 4 servings

Ingredients

Parboiled rice 500 gm

Sour curd 250 gm

Green chillies 6

Shallots 10

Mango ginger 10 gm

Salt As per taste

Method

Wash the rice thoroughly until the water runs clear. Soak it in water for 30 minutes.

Bring 3 to 4 litres of water to a rolling boil in a large pot. Gently add the soaked rice and stir once to prevent sticking.

Boil on high heat for 10 minutes, then reduce to medium, and continue cooking until the rice grains are very soft. They should be softer than usual as they firm up slightly upon fermentation.

Carefully drain most of the excess water, leaving behind a little to retain the starch.

Allow the rice to cool down to room temperature. Add just enough clean water to the rice so it is submerged by about an inch.

Cover the vessel loosely with a lid and let it ferment for 10–12 hours in a cool, dark spot.

A tangy aroma and small bubbles will indicate that the fermentation is complete.

Just before serving, mix in the sour curd, green chillies, shallots, mango ginger, and salt (optional).

Special serving tip: Crush lemon leaves and green chillies into the rice before serving. Alternatively, one can temper it with mustard seeds, dried red chillies, curry leaves in mustard oil, and serve it as Chhunka Pakhaala.

— Excerpted with permission from ‘Odia Byanjan: Classic Odia Recipes’ by Debasish Patanaik, Aleph