Modernity brings ‘extinction’ of old faith and traditions at Malana

Dipender Manta

With the passage of time, Malana residents are taking to “modernity”. 

Known for its unique culture and tradition, Malana village in Kullu is shadowed by the peaks of Chanderkhani and Deo Tibba. This solitary village is situated in the vicinity of Malana nullah to the north-east of Kullu valley. 

The village was known to have its own lifestyle and social structure and people were strict in following their customs. 

For centuries, Malana clung to its seclusion zealously by running affairs itself until slowly the government began to impinge upon it. First, tangentially, by way of revenue officials and development administration, then directly, when the first power plant came up in 2001. A devastating fire in 2008 destroyed many of Malana’s beautiful wooden Kashthkuni buildings, temples and artefacts, giving way to brick and tin sheets.

According to locals, Jamlu Rishi (sage) inhabited this place and framed rules and regulations. They claim it to be one of the oldest democracies of the world with a well-organised parliamentary system, guided by their chief deity — Jamlu Rishi

A few years ago, the village was not even connected with road facility and people had to walk 45 km from Naggar through a pass between Chanderkhani and Deo Tibba. Similarly, people had to walk on foot from Jari towards Malana, which was a long journey.  The village now has a road, which gives villagers access to avail facilities being provided by the state government for their welfare. Today, the distance has shrunk considerably. From Kasol, Malana is just 21 km now. A vehicle covers the first 18 km and then one needs to trek uphill. But the climb up the frost-hardened slopes is still tough. 

Earlier, Malana was known for its traditional Kashthkuni structure of houses made from wood, which are now rapidly converting into concrete structures of cement. The new houses are being constructed with cement and metal roof sheets. Earlier, the roof of traditional houses was that of stones.

Malana residents, who keep livestock (sheep and goats) used to prepare warm clothes from the wool of sheep and preferred wearing their traditional dress made of sheep wool. But now, young generation hesitates in continuing with this practice. In Malana village, disputes were settled by the village council ruled by the chief deity — Jamlu Rishi. The village used to be governed by a bicameral parliament, consisting of lower house called the Kanishthang and an upper house called the Jyeshthang to resolve issues earlier at village level. But residents, who speak Kanashi language, now move court to settle their disputes.

Malana village is notorious for cultivation of cannabis, however, after the police intervened, residents are now trying to find out other alternatives.

Hari Ram, vice-pradhan of Gram Panchayat Malana, said earlier people never used to marry outside the village, but with the passage of time, the practice is going extinct. Now, girls and boys are marrying outside the village as per their choice.

“Similarly, the youth prefers wearing modern dresses like jeans and they shy away from wearing traditional dress made of sheep wool,” he said.

He said there was a lot of change and people were adopting modernity successfully. 

Malana is much closer to the world now than it ever was. All houses have television and satellite dishes. Solar panels light up the common areas. Villagers use mobile phones. The state transport buses come to the foot of the mountain just across the Malana Nullah twice a day. Taxis ferry tourists, some of them owned by Malana residents.

He said earlier outsiders were not allowed to stay in the village, adding: “The village is now under the revenue administration of Bhuntar Tehsil and it’s the Deputy Commissioner of Kullu whose writ runs large. The village gets government funding and there are solar lights, cement pathways, drainage systems, and water tanks. Most importantly, there’s a government school with 300 students and a new private school with 80 students. Teachers who come from outside Malana have been allowed to rent homes in the village, a dramatic concession from Jamlu Devta.”