An eponym of lord of physicians, Shiva

Raaja Bhasin

From the direction of Palampur and Paprola, the highway takes a long lazy turn up to Baijnath. Past the curve, at the start of the small bazaar, a path breaks away from the highway and leads to the magnificent Shiva temple that lies a couple of hundred yards from the road.

The temple of Baijnath is a splendid example of classical Indian architecture and falls within the ambit of the sacred ‘Jalandhara Peeth’. Legend has it that when the powerful demon Jalandhara was killed, his immense body crashed to earth. It was buried deep by the gods and later humans built temples on strategic points along the trace of the body so that he could never rise again. One of these nails, to the subterranean coffin, is considered to be the shrine of Baijnath.

‘Nagara’-style architecture

Built by the waters of the Binwa (Binduka) stream, the tiny town of Baijanth is a place of considerable antiquity and was once known as Kiragrama; this held a significant position on the old trade routes. Here, Bhagwan Shiva is revered as Vaidhyanath — Lord of Physicians (the place name ‘Baijnath’ is derived from this word). Unlike many of the other old temples in Himachal, the history of this one is fairly well known and can be authenticated by inscriptions on site. The temple was built in 1204 by two merchant brothers, Manyaka and Ahuka. Built in the ‘Nagara’ style, with graceful proportions and a wealth of intricate carvings, this temple is a major draw for pilgrims and visitors. It is believed that some repairs on the temple were undertaken in the nineteenth century by Raja Sansar Chand of Kangra.

Ravana connection

Legend also has it that during the ‘Treta Yuga’, Lanka’s King Ravana had travelled deep into the Himalayas to the foot of Kailash Parvat and supplicated Bhagwan Shiva. He went to the extent of offering his 10 heads to Lord Shiva. Pleased with his devotion, Bhagwan Shiva appeared before Ravana, who asked him for the boon of immortality — and this was granted with a few riders. Ravana also asked Bhagwan Shiva to accompany him to Lanka. Bhagwan Shiva agreed to do so and took the form of a stone ‘lingam’. Before doing this, Bhagwan Shiva had warned Ravana that he was to carry this ‘lingam’ to Lanka and en route this was not to be placed on the ground. While returning, Ravana handed the ‘Shivalinga’ to a Gaddi shepherd for a moment. The shepherd could not handle its weight and placed it on the ground where it has since been established. Interestingly, even today at Baijanth, the effigy of Ravana is not burnt on the occasion of Dasehra.

Stone carvings

At this exquisitely-built temple, Nandi, the bull-mount of Bhagwan Shiva, is under a canopy that faces the ‘mandap’, hall. Carved along the external walls are three exceptionally executed and unusual images. The first, on the left of the temple entrance, is that of Bhagwan Ganesha, where he is depicted with six arms. He rides the ‘sawaris’ of a mouse and a lion facing opposite directions. The second is of Bhagwan Vishnu as Vraha Avatar, the boar; under his feet is a mermaid (not Matsya Avatar), and another Devi at the right above; the other Avatars of Vishnu are also depicted in the temple. The third unusual stone carving is of ‘Ardhnarishwara’, which is not the expected one of Bhagwan Shiva and Parvati but depicts Bhagwan Vishnu with Lakshmi.

There are several other significant temples in the area which include the finely-built small one of Sidhanath that lies across the road.

(The writer is an author, historian and journalist)

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