A veggie refuge in Switzerland
SWITZERLAND has captivated the world with its breathtaking beauty, justly earning the sobriquet of ‘heaven on earth.’ But, as the saying goes, the way to one’s heart is through the stomach. When the belly and taste buds remain unsatiated, the charm of the scenery seems to lose its lustre, and heaven doesn’t feel so heavenly.
As a strict vegetarian, I found myself in a tough spot in this meat-loving country. Even well-known international fast food chains failed to provide vegetarian options. The limited vegetarian dishes on offer were westernised and came with steep price tags. Additional toppings like onions or tomato ketchup, which I hoped would add an Indian touch, were also heavily charged. This financial and culinary frustration led me to search for vegetarian-friendly restaurants that offered Indian cuisine in this foreign land.
To my surprise, my search brought me to Zurich’s Haus Hiltl, the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant. Intrigued by its rich history and Indian roots, I was eager to experience it firsthand. Located off the bustling Bahnhofstrasse shopping street, a small sign proudly says, ‘Haus Hiltl — The World’s Oldest Continuing Vegetarian Restaurant,’ a claim verified by the Guinness World Records.
Ascending to the top floor of the building, where this 127-year-old restaurant is housed, I was greeted by a unique fusion of Indian, Asian, Mediterranean and Swiss vegetarian cuisines, along with a vegetarian ‘butchery’ offering vegan and vegetarian delicacies. What struck me most was the innovative buffet system: diners pay based on the weight of their plate, regardless of the food’s content. Before settling down to eat, the plate is weighed at a counter, and the price is calculated accordingly. Even the weight of the empty plate is deducted. This system seems to be a practical solution to food wastage, something that could be worth adopting in restaurants and food chains in India, where half-portions are rarely offered.
The restaurant is run by Rauf Hiltl, the great-grandson of the founder, Ambrosius Hiltl. Ambrosius, after being diagnosed with severe rheumatoid arthritis, had to abandon meat and, in doing so, discovered a love for vegetarian dishes. This passion led him to open a vegetarian-only restaurant in a country known for its meat-heavy cuisine.
The guiding spirit continues to inspire the restaurant’s staff, including several Indian chefs. They are deeply involved in various initiatives to promote vegetarianism in Switzerland, such as the ‘Swisstainable Veggie Day’ campaign, which encourages people to go vegetarian on the first day of each month, and the ‘Too Good To Go’ campaign, under which unsold food is offered at half price before closing time to minimise waste. These efforts speak volumes about the restaurant’s commitment to its mission.
