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The simian rulers of Shimla

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Illustration: Sandeep Joshi
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Shimla, once the summer capital of the British Raj, has a very different establishment. Forget municipal bodies and elected representatives; it is the fur-covered bureaucracy of macaques and langurs that truly governs the hill station.

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Across the Mall Road, Jakhoo Hill, and other tourist hotspots, this simian syndicate operates a thriving parallel economy. Tourists have to routinely “pay taxes” in the form of bananas, chips, and sometimes even mobile phones or designer sunglasses.

As the humans-run administration debates about plastic waste and heritage preservation, the monkeys have already pioneered a circular economy. They expertly liberate packaged snacks, discarding the wrappers across the city, ensuring a steady stream of employment for sanitation workers.

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What’s more, these monkeys run an impressive surveillance state. Perched on rooftops, electric wires, and balconies, they monitor human activity, and their intelligence network could shame any modern agency. The moment a tourist reaches for a bag of goodies, an interception squad swoops in within seconds.

The government responses — ranging from faded ‘Don’t feed monkeys’ boards to sporadic anti-monkey drives — are met with bemused indifference. For every relocated monkey, his three cousins arrive to reclaim the lost territory. If nothing else, it is a lesson in grassroots leadership and adaptability.

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Ultimately, Shimla’s monkeys offer a perfect satire of governance — wily, opportunistic, eternally resourceful. As long as tourists come bearing bananas, the 'Monkey Republic' will flourish.

So, the next time you visit? Pay the monkey tax — and proceed with caution.

Shama Rana, Shimla

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