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A city resurrected

If there is a comparison of a city with the phoenix, the mythical bird that rises from the ashes, it could rightly be Dresden, capital of Saxony.

A city resurrected

Pillnitz Castle is located on the banks of the River Elbe



Ranjita Biswas

If there is a comparison of a city with the phoenix, the mythical bird that rises from the ashes, it could rightly be Dresden, capital of Saxony. During World War II, it was one of the most bombed cities in Germany, turning it into rubble and killing thousands of people. Yet today, when you visit the city, there is a not a hint of that destruction, so well-reconstructed the city has been in the post-War years.

Dresden belonged to East Germany, prior to the reunification. It was once called 'Florence on the Elbe'comparing it to the Italian city known for its beautiful architecture and art treasures. Dresden's original name was Drezdzany meaning 'Forest Dwellers on the Plain' in Slav language. The Slavs had inhabited River Elbe’s north bank.

Saxony was a powerful kingdom from the medieval times but its golden age was in the 18th century when under ruler August the Strong and his son, Friedrich August II, the lavish Baroque and Rococo style buildings that are strewn across Dresden's old town were built.

At the centre of the huge square in the historical part stands the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), Germany's largest Protestant church. It, too, had been destroyed during the bombing. Nearby is the Versailles-inspired Zwinger Palace, famous for its art collections, among these Rafael's Sistine Madonna. There are three separate exhibitions housed in the palace, now part of the Dresden State Art Collections. Augustus the Strong and his son loved to collect art treasures from around the world and also commissioned new ones. The lavishly designed collection, with more than 4,000 pieces on display, is mind-boggling, to say the least. Gold, rock crystal, precious stones and diamonds vie for your attention. 

The Green Vault is regarded as the most splendid treasure chamber museum in Europe. Here you can see the biggest green diamond in the world. For Indians, of special interest is a miniature court of Mughal king Aurangzeb done in great detail, with authentic chhatris, containing more than a thousand pieces. Though Johann Melchior Dinglinger, the king's favourite goldsmith, never visited India, he apparently took notes from travellers and produced this superb work of art.

All these are in an open exhibit space following the king's policy of throwing open the door to his collection, a prototype of a public museum, unusual for those days. 

The New Green Vault is equally interesting with selected exhibits highlighted by illuminations behind glass. Outside, as the eyes adjust to daylight after the dazzling exhibits you will come across another part of the palace — the 'Stallhof' (stall courtyard) — the last preserved tournament venue within a European castle. On its wall outside is the world's longest and biggest porcelain painting portraying the procession of kings and noblemen on their horses, artisans, scientists, et al, commemorating 800 years of uninterrupted rule in Saxony. Etched on a lovely lemon yellow tile background (24,000 pieces were used) it's simply awesome.

Talking of tiles, Dresden China or porcelain is quite famous, being the birthplace of this product in Europe. Later the industry was moved to nearby Meissen. If you cannot visit there but want to bring back a piece (with an impressive price tag), there is an outlet at the main square.

Combining a river cruise on the Elbe and an expansive botanical garden with palaces is a good option and reachable by public transport too. Pillnitz Castle, actually there are three, was the summer residence of the Saxon kings. In the 18th century, it was a place to party and hold lavish balls. The garden was done in baroque style as was the fashion then, but later, a less formal English garden was added. 

A great attraction here the 'grand old lady', a camellia tree brought from Japan in the 18th century. To keep away the winter chill, the engineers designed a gigantic mobile glass house in 1992 which moves on a track and keeps the tree covered till spring when it flowers. Earlier it was encased in a wooden house that was rebuilt each year and warmed with a heater.

From here a ferry ride on the Elbe is an enchanting experience with castles and vineyards waving from the banks till it docks near the old walls of Dresden built to protect the city.

Fact File

How to get there: By air, by road from Berlin or trains.
Where to stay: Hotels to suit all budgets from luxury to youth hostels. 
What to do: Visit the old historical quarter, museums, take a river cruise.
What to buy: Mementoes from the local market. Also a great place to taste local sweets and savouries.

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