Coconut, curried away

Pushpesh Pant

More than 10,000 years ago, the first coconut arrived on the Indian shore floating happily over the waves of Indian Ocean. Born somewhere in the Polynesian islets, the immigrant soon became a child of this soil and today most of us believe that it is native to the subcontinent. It is often called kalp vriksha, the wish fulfilling tree, as different parts of the plant give us food, drink and coir to weave mats, etc. But let’s stick to food and beverages for now.

There is nothing better than tender coconut water to quench thirst on a hot summer day. Then there is coconut milk — thick and thin — that enriches fish, chicken and prawn curries in the entire coastal belt. Coconut milk imparts a distinct identity to vegetarian gravies like avial. In Maharashtra, coconut milk infused with kokum becomes sole kadhi as it douses the fire ignited by the Kolhapuri red rasa.

In the region north of Narmada, it is dry coconut (khopra) that is preferred. It is ground after dry roasting with aromatic whole spices to obtain a special paste for non-vegetarian gravies. There is a long list of sweets — laddoo, barfi and fillings for gujiya and paak — that rely on grated coconut. In Bengal, the chholar daal is incomplete without a few slices of coconut. This is not to forget nariyal ki kheer, kulfi and ice cream.

Our friend Rajesh Raghunathan recently introduced us to the poor man’s (mock) chicken curry from Tamil Nadu. Flesh of coconut is cut into chunks to resemble boneless breast pieces and then cooked in Chettinadu Kozhi masala. The illusion is powerful. He himself cooks a mean coconut rice and dishes out dozens of coconut-based chutneys and garnishes that are substantial enough to be classified as accompaniments. Sinful seductions spawned by the nut are a tall glass of rum (white) and coconut water doffing the hat to Harry Belafonte. And if, perchance, a bottle of Malibu coconut liqueur is at hand, nothing like it... In the West, where vegan is in vogue, coconut flesh is used to prepare vegan ham and bacon. 

Our favourite lunch for a lazy summer day is coconut kadhi with steamed rice. We take great pleasure in sharing the recipe with our readers.

Coconut kadhi

Ingredients

Grated coconut............................................100 g

Peeled and sliced.....................................1 onion

Curd............................................................200 ml

Turmeric.....................................................1/2 tsp

Green chillies (chopped)....................................2

Mustard seeds..........................................1/2 tsp

Curry leaves.....................................A small sprig 

Oil.................................................................2 tbsp

Salt............................................................To taste

Method

Beat the curd with a whisk and add a little water to dilute it. Add salt and turmeric powder. You may add a pinch of red chilli powder if you like.

Heat oil in a pan. Put in the mustard seeds and curry leaves. When the seeds pop up, add the onions and stir fry till they turn translucent. Add coconut and stir fry briskly till it releases a nice aroma. Take care not to overcook. 

Reduce heat to low and pour in the curd in a steady stream. Keep stirring constantly to avoid curdling. Add water to get the desired consistency. Add green chillies. Bring to a boil, stir in between and cook for five minutes on medium flame. Simmer for 2-3 minutes more.

We like to top the kadhi with a few thin slices of coconut — skin removed if using dry. Flesh of tender coconut as garnish will make it divine.