Small eats for hunger pangs

Pushpesh Pant

It may be sheer coincidence, but, in the recent days, we have been stumbling upon tapas in quick succession. First it was at a starred eatery in South Delhi and then a standalone restro-bar in Connaught Place featured these Spanish nibbles on its menu. And finally, a friend who recently returned from San Sebastian invited us to a tapas dinner at his house.

Well, the seductions of the bite-sized Hispanic delicacy are many. You can indulge to your heart’s content with what you fancy most or try as many items on offer as you please. From breads topped with cheese and slices of Iberian pork to batter-fried small fish and sea food, there is a mind-boggling range of these small eats.

The birth of tapas is attributed to the sherry drinkers’ who would keep flies away from their glasses with an edible covering. Soon, tavern owners began to dish out tasty bits to keep the patrons glued to their seats,. Another legend has it that during the dreadful inquisition, tapas were used to expose the Jews who falsely claimed conversion to Christianity. Slightest reluctance to bite into a porcine nibble would give them away!

There are also stories claiming that tapas was created when King Alfonso X was recovering from an illness and was advised to eat small portions at intervals with a little wine. Yet another account tells us that it was a benevolent sovereign who ordered the inn keepers to compulsorily hand out food to those who came to drink ensuring that they got some nourishment as they guzzled alcohol. And then there are the cynics who believe that the ‘tradition’ was started by wine sellers who disguised the taste of bad wine with strong cheeses or spicy meats.

The Spanish took the tapas wherever they went. Mexico, Chile and Argentina in South American continent as well the Philippines in Southeast Asia belong to the realm of tapas. Calamari and enchiladas are some of the most popular tapas. 

People in many cities and towns as well as tourists hop from one small eatery to another to savour a signature dish or to bring back to life a jading palate. It is not obligatory to pair tapas with sherry. A glass of wine, cider or mug of beer can be used to wash these down. 

Essentially, tapas are appetisers — hors d’oeuvre — that appear elsewhere in the form of canapés. What has contributed to their popularity is perhaps the custom of serving a late dinner — usually between 9 and 11 pm. Tapas also offer an opportunity to socialise in the daytime before having lunch at home. To us, the most interesting part of this genre is the intermingling of diverse ingredients and quick cooking techniques. Fruits of Earth and Fruits of Sea enrich the tapas platter and tempt the diner with stuffed olives, cheeses, sausages, quail eggs, baby octopus and cured meats.

Tapas remind us a bit of the mezze platter in the Mediterranean or sushi and satay in Japan and Indonesia. However, what makes them special is the flair of those who prepare these. Showmanship comes naturally to those who live in the land of bull fighters and flamenco dancers!