Thailand’s hidden gem

Khursheed Dinshaw

Chanthaburi is a quaint city that has been an integral part of eastern Thailand’s trade and culture. The Chanthaboon waterfront community, which settled here almost 300 years ago, comprises Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai. It is believed that the first Vietnamese came here during the reign of King Narai. They accompanied French priests and were Catholics. The Chinese community, which migrated during the rule of King Rama III, followed Buddhism. It came to Chanthaburi for the expansion of trade and commerce.

The houses have colonial facades and are made of wood, which helped to keep the residents cool in the city’s tropical climate. Some of their rooftops have a peculiar shape resembling a woman from above the waist and bird from the waist below. Known locally as Kinnari or Kinnaree, these creatures can fly between the celestial and human world. Kinnaris come from Himavanta, which is a forest mentioned in Hindu mythology.

The Toulaoeia Chinese Temple, dedicated to Buddha, is imposing. It has Thai Buddhist, Chinese Buddhist and Hindu influences. “The Garuda at the centre depicts Hinduism while flowers on the roof and dragons on the pillars are taken from the Chinese culture. The shape of the temple is Thai,” explains Wit, a local Thai guide. The Spirit House is a small house in front of the temple. A Thai tradition, the Spirit House, is built for the god of the land in exchange for using the land to build a home.

The highlight of the Chanthanamit road is the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which is one of the largest cathedrals of Thailand. Built in 1909, it has Gothic architecture. During the Second World War, its tall roof was taken down to make it a less visible bombing target. Inside the Chanthaboon Waterfront Community Development building, visitors can learn about traditional mat weaving. There are mat-woven handbags, slippers and baskets, which make excellent eco-friendly souvenirs. An elaborate process involving 40 steps is undertaken for weaving a single piece.

Si Chan Road may be quiet during weekdays but come Friday, Saturday and Sunday, it turns into a bustling hub for gem trading as dealers come from all over Thailand. Business deals are conducted well into the night as loose gems exchange hands while electronic scales and tweezers work overtime.

Some of the street food that can be eaten includes crispy fish, kluay ping and rice crispies. While crispy fish is local fish grilled on charcoal, kluay ping is grilled bananas over charcoal. While strolling around, it is common to see how the residents deftly make circular-shaped rice crispies by simply spreading sticky rice on a hot wok and brushing it with butter mixed with salt and sugar.

Some street food vendors sell ho muk pla or steamed curry in a banana leaf. It is eaten with steamed rice. A variety of munchies made from bananas, mangoes and rice flour are sold alongside fried dry shrimps and clams, chicken satay, pork ribs and soups. An enterprising youngster named Kong sells egg cakes that are crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Made with flour, eggs and vanilla essence, these are baked in a charcoal oven for 20 minutes.

“Our egg cakes are quite popular. Last week, I sold almost 1,000 cakes in one day,” Kong proudly tells a group of Indian visitors. Apart from durian, vendors also sell local fruits like mangosteen, rambutan, longan and salak or snake fruit.