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The enigma of Sundarbans

An amalgam of mystery and myths, the mangrove forests consist of an elaborate network of tidal waterways, lagoons and small islands
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Nestled in the mighty delta of the Ganges, Brahmaputra and Meghna rivers, Sundarbans is a captivating tapestry of mangrove forests, winding waterways and rich biodiversity. This UNESCO World Heritage Site spans over 10,000 sq km across India and Bangladesh, making it the largest mangrove forest in the world. The unique halophytic (salt-tolerant) mangrove forests thrive in the brackish waters of this ecologically-rich and mysterious region. Both captivating and treacherous, they consist of an elaborate network of tidal waterways, lagoons and small islands.

The Sundarbans had been beckoning for a long time. My sister and I were drawn by the mystique and allure of the dream-like, almost mystical, atmosphere.

Brahminy kite

Dense fog often blankets the region, and the haunting calls of wildlife create an otherworldly, at times surreal, feeling. As one travels through the ancient, mysterious forests, riding a ferry on the vast, soundless waterways, and aware that nature’s beauty and danger coexist here, one feels a vague sense of discomfiture. The silence is occasionally broken by the splash of a crocodile or the distant roar of a tiger. Our guide, Dhrovo, mentions that the riverbanks and channels are slippery with quicksand and the salty waters are teeming with predatory saltwater crocodiles. The jungles are home to numerous snakes.

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Getting there, cost & more

  • Sundarbans is accessible only by riverine waterways. The ‘package’ in a resort needs to be booked in advance.
  • The standard two nights/three days tour costs Rs 6,500-Rs 8,500 per person (luxury resorts cost more). It includes 3-star hotel accommodation and AC bus transport from Kolkata to Godhkhali (about 83 km). From here, you will be taken to your resort by ferry by the tour operator. Be prepared for at least three hours on the ferry.
  • The package includes sightseeing by boat, a full-day safari on the river, meals, forest entry permissions, a trained guide, and local dance performances at the resort in the evening. A charming walk through a local village is also organised.
  • Best time to visit is from September to May.
  • Other attractions include the Bhagabatpur Crocodile Project, river dolphin watching, observing Olive Ridley turtles at Kanak Island and exploring the ruins at Netidhopani.
Common kingfisher

Of Animals, Birds & Twisted Roots

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According to the tiger census of 2023, there are approximately 100 Bengal tigers (Panthera tigris) in the Sundarbans. The forest is also home to predators like leopards, jungle cats, saltwater crocodiles, muggers, gharials and water monitor lizards. The reptilian inhabitants include various species of turtles, rock pythons, king cobras, Russell’s vipers, sea snakes, and common kraits. Additionally, the rivers of the Sundarbans are a sanctuary for the endangered Ganges River Dolphins.

We didn’t spot a tiger, but saw its pugmarks. We also saw a crocodile sunning itself, and a wild cat watched us as we drifted by. Sea gulls floated above, a bald eagle perched atop a tall tree, a leaser adjutant stork strutted about, and an owl visited our resort garden.

The waters and forests are alive with bird calls of nearly 250 species, including sandpipers, spoonbills, white-bellied sea eagles, ospreys, Brahminy kites, shikras, various herons and common bird species such as cormorants, storks, seagulls, egrets, sunbirds, cuckoos, various ducks and geese. Migratory birds visit during winter. The chimeric topography of the Sundarbans hosts approximately 300 species of plants. The forest reserve is internationally recognised for its high biodiversity of mangrove flora on both land and water. Trees like chak keora, golpati, gnewa, red mangrove, sundari and garjan (also known as the ‘walking tree’) have ingeniously developed unique root systems that anchor them in the shifting, unstable soil and help them breathe in the largely anaerobic environment. These roots — snake roots, stilt roots, knee roots, and pneumatophores — create an ecosystem unlike any other. Our ferry guide pointed out the lush meadows of the perennial wild Tateoka grass, which was a pleasant break from the gnarled and convoluted root systems of the swamps.

The salty waters are teeming with predatory crocodiles.

Photos courtesy: Ashish Ray

The Mighty Tiger & the Goddess

In the heart of the Sundarbans, the local populace faces a daily struggle to eke out a meager livelihood against the challenging topography. The people here are incredibly resilient, yet their lives are fraught with danger. Many of them are ‘collectors’, venturing into the dense jungle to gather honey and mud crabs or to fish. This perilous task makes them easy prey for the man-eating Bengal tigers that roam in the region.

The bagh (tiger) is not just an apex hunter; it is an all-pervasive and powerful presence, revered almost as a demi-god. The locals believe that these majesic creatures, hidden in the dense forests, are always watching humans, marking their prey and zeroing in with savage precision at the opportune moment. The villagers recount that when the villages were unfenced, tigers would easily swim across the mighty river for their hunt. Often, when fishermen went out in groups of three, the tiger would mark the ‘manjhi’, the man in the centre. Once marked, it was difficult to escape death.

A poignant story told by the villagers is of ‘Vidhwapara’(Widow Village). It is populated by women whose husbands have been hunted by the man-eating tigers. These poverty-stricken women, ostracised and stigmatised by society, are left with little choice but to continue the dangerous task of ‘collecting’, fully aware that when they venture out, they might never return.

The villagers of the Sundarbans venerate Bono Bibi or Bana Devi, the goddess of the fishing folk and jungle workers, and her brother Shah-Janguli, who “protect people from the beasts of the forest”. Meanwhile, Dakshin Rai, the ruler of the demons, seeks to “disrupt this harmony”.

This land of mystery and myths — you may leave the Sunderbans, but it never leaves you!

— The writer is a freelance contributor

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