A flavour of Coorg

The cold wave in North India seems to be unending this year. As we sit indoors, protected by multiple layers of clothing but still shivering, our mind drifts to the faraway blue mountains of Coorg. Decades back, we had a brief sojourn in winter there, when my son Indrajit was shooting a documentary on Kaveri river.

Coorg is a magical place, a great holiday destination with beautiful coffee plantations, thickly wooded hills and very hospitable and colourful people, proud of their martial traditions. Some may recall that the first Commander-in-Chief of the Indian Army after Independence was Field Marshal KM Cariappa, an illustrious son of Coorg.

CB Muthamma, also from Coorg, was the first Indian career diplomat to serve as an ambassador. There have been many other residents from this region who have distinguished themselves in law, medicine, sports and various other fields.

However, few of us are familiar with the wonderful flavours cooked and served in these mountains of Karnataka. Game, foraged foods as well as pork enrich the spread of a Coorg host and homemade wines are aplenty. But let’s talk about Coorgi chicken that warmed our body and soul during our stay in the Koduga homeland.

The spicing is subtle and quite different not only from the North Indian qormas and kadahi or makhani murg, but also from the South Indian chicken preparations like kori gassi and the birds relished in Chettinad.

In Coorg, this recipe traditionally uses the country bird but trust us, the dish tastes just as delicious with a broiler chicken.

Chicken in Coorg spices

Ingredients

Chicken 500-600 gm

Salt ¼ tsp

Turmeric powder 3/4 tsp

For Coorg spice paste

Onion 250 gm

Star anise 1

Green cardamom 4-5

Cinnamon 1 stick

Cloves 6-7

Black pepper 10-12 (whole)

Big black mustard seeds 1 tsp

Cumin seeds 2 tsp

Green chilies (whole, sliced in the middle) 5-6

Coriander powder 2 tsp

Fresh green coriander (chopped) 5-6 sprigs

For curry

Fresh curry leaves 15-20

Ginger-garlic paste 2 tsp

Tamarind pulp 3 tsp

Fresh coriander leaves for the garnish

Method

Marinate the chicken pieces in salt and turmeric powder for at least 30 minutes.

Peel and thinly slice the onion lengthwise.

Prepare the Coorg spice paste by heating about 1 tsp oil in a pan and adding the dry spices to roast on medium flame for about a minute and a half. Add the thinly sliced onion along with green chilies to the spices and stir fry for another 2 to 3 minutes. Now add coriander powder and lightly stir fry for 2 more minutes. Add chopped green coriander leaves to the pan and mix. Continue cooking for half a minute.

Remove from the pan and transfer to a blender. Add salt as per taste and grind it into a fine paste.

Heat the remaining oil in a thick-bottomed pan and toss in 10-15 fresh curry leaves. As these begin to splutter, add the ginger- garlic paste. Stir fry for a minute. Now add the marinated chicken to this and cook on medium heat for 5 minutes.

At this stage, pour the Coorg spice paste and mix it well to coat the chicken. Cover with a heavy lid and cook on medium flame for about 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Now add tamarind pulp. Blend well and continue cooking chicken for another 2 minutes. Check seasoning and garnish with fresh coriander leaves before serving.