Food Talk: Pistachio in the Indian imagination

More than three decades back, I was busy researching Indian aphrodisiac recipes. My good friend, a peerless food impresario, sprang a surprise when he disclosed that he was in possession of the heirloom recipe from the rural kitchens of Patiala — Pistiyan da salan. He had been ‘gifted’ this recipe by a food-loving scion of the princely family. When we got heritage chef Mohammad Farooq to cook it for us, it turned out to be exquisite. It was creamy chicken curry with the gravy having hardly a hint of the emerald tint. It tasted rich and had, perhaps, served the patrons in urgent need of tonic restorative food well. Chef Farooq’s exertions made us realise that, to mix metaphors, this was not everyone’s ‘cup of tea’. Years passed by, and we had almost forgotten about the magical properties of the pistachio when we suddenly encountered the recipe of ‘pista gosht’ in Chef Nishant Choubey’s forthcoming cookbook, ‘Stay With the Indus’. This time, the nut was favouring not the murg, but a mutton chop.

Pista has always occupied the top spot in Indian imagination. Above cashewnuts, walnuts, and even almonds. Imported from Afghanistan, it had great scarcity value. Thin slivers were used to garnish phirni, kulfi and burfi. This was before liberalisation of imports that made access to all kinds of nuts easy.

Memory is still green of the ‘piste ki launjee’ that was crafted with unalloyed pista. It is seldom seen at the desi sweetshop counters these days, though, at times, served in lieu of pralines and petit-fours.

We are glad that pistachios are enjoying a well-deserved revival. Chef Parvinder Bali, who directs the School of European Pastry and Culinary Arts in Gurugram, treated us to an absolutely out-of-this-world ‘pista gelato’ when we visited his pastry studio — that in itself is a work of art. Chef Bali informed us that the best pistachios are imported from Turkey, and this is what Chef Nishant seconds.

‘Pista-crusted mutton chops’ do not claim any aphrodisiac properties but would have easily found a place in any princely dastarkhwan — Awadhi, Patialashahi or Hyderabadi. Try it out before the weather changes, and you start worrying about its garam taseer!

Pista Gosht

Ingredients

Mutton/lamb (chops) 500 gm

Pistachios (shelled) 1 cup

Capers 50 gm

Parsley 50 gm

Jalapenos 40 gm

Green olives 40 gm

Fresh breadcrumbs 40 gm

Yellow pumpkin 100 gm

Garlic cloves (minced) 4

Ginger (minced) 1-inch piece

Green chillies (slit lengthwise) 2

Cumin seeds 1 tsp

Coriander powder 1 tsp

Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp

Red chilli powder 1 tsp (or to taste)

Garam masala powder 1/2 tsp

Fresh cilantro leaves (chopped) 1/4 cup

Olive oil 2 tsp

Prunes 100 gm

Red wine vinegar 50 ml

Castor sugar 100 gm

Salt  To taste

Method

Prepare a crust for lamb chops by mixing chopped pistachios, jalapenos, chopped capers, green olives, parsley and breadcrumbs.

Marinate lamb chops with salt, pepper, olive oil, minced garlic, minced ginger, turmeric powder and garam masala for at least two hours. Cook these in a pre-heated oven at 220ºC for 10-12 minutes, and let these rest.

Meanwhile, roast the pumpkin at 180ºC for 10 minutes with some chopped garlic, turmeric powder and olive oil. Take it out of the oven. Mash it well. Spice it up with cumin powder, red chilli powder and cilantro.

Take a separate pan and cook the prunes in red wine vinegar and sugar on low flame for 3-4 minutes, stirring continuously.

Spread the crust on a flat tray and place the chops in it, turning once or twice to coat evenly.

Serve with warm mash and cooked prunes.