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Food Talk: The souffle seduction

A simple savoury cheesecake souffle is not difficult to bake at home and enjoy
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A brilliantly curated lunch by Chef Dhruv and his team at the legendary Olive at Mehrauli in the Capital on a sunny winter afternoon recently reminded us of the souffle that can steal the show effortlessly. It was quite a stunning spread, served with unobtrusive elegance and included many a stellar dish like morels-crested risotto, Chilean sea bass paired with kasundi-tinged sauce, but we can’t get the cheese souffle out of our mind that came surrounded by a hallow of foam. It was unveiled with dramatic flourish and spooned out in individual portions — fluffy yet substantially satisfying. The fruity touch was added by what appeared like candied jamun dices scattered on the base of the dish. An inspired work of art not easy to replicate! Such is the stuff memories are made of.

However, there is no cause for despair. A simple savoury cheesecake souffle is not difficult to master, bake at home and enjoy. This bake, we are told by historians, was created in France in the early 18th century but became more popular only in the first quarter of the 19th century. A frugal version was prepared with leftover vegetables and meats or seafood.

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The sweet cheese souffle can contain delicious delights like chocolate, preserved fruits, jams and topped with powdered sugar. Once you master the art of sauce-making by separately whisking yolks and egg whites, you can tickle your sweet tooth as easily with the ‘moussey’ cake.

Don’t get stressed if you don’t have fancy French or Italian cheeses in the pantry. Processed cheddar cheese works quite well in this recipe and Dijon mustard adds a nice zing to the souffle. along with another invisible layer of enticing flavour.

Cheese souffle

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Ingredients

Eggs (yolks and whites separated) 5

Butter (including 1 tbsp for greasing) 5 tbsp

Cheddar cheese (grated) 1 cup

Dijon mustard ¼ tsp

Nutmeg (ground) A pinch

Cream of tartar ½ tsp

Breadcrumbs 2 tbsp

Flour 3 tbsp

Milk 2 cups

Salt ¼ tsp

Method

Pre-heat the oven to 350º F. Souffle should be baked on the lowest rack possible.

Grease the souffle dish and coat its base and the sides with breadcrumbs to prevent the souffle

from collapsing as it rises in the oven.

Prepare béchamel sauce by melting the butter in a large deep pan. As it bubbles, add the flour. Whisk the mixture together until a smooth paste is obtained. Cook for about a minute on medium flame, stirring gently. Add milk slowly, whisking continuously till the ingredients are well blended.

When the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, it is done. If the sauce isn’t thick, the souffle will turn out very soft and will not be able to hold its elegant form.

At this stage, add cheese to the pan. It will melt more easily if whisked into the warm bechamel sauce. Ensure that the sauce is nice and thick before adding the rest of the ingredients.

Allow the sauce to cool slightly. Now add 5 egg yolks. Whisk until blended. Transfer this mixture to a large bowl. Set aside.

Whisk egg whites and cream of tartar until stiff peaks form. You may use a blender, if handy. Fold in egg whites, in stages, 1/3 at a time into the souffle base, until the mixture is light and egg whites are incorporated.

Transfer mixture to the souffle dish. The mixture should be filled to the brim. Level the top with a spatula. Place the souffle dish on the lowest rack in the oven.

This will allow it to rise up nicely without scorching the top. Bake for 35 minutes.

Serve the souffle with dramatic flourish by scattering candied jamuns, berries, walnuts, jam, etc, at the base of dish.

Dig in while it’s hot from the oven.

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