Foodtalk: Good old shakarkandi reimagined

‘If there be paradise on earth, it’s here, it’s here!’ The famous lines in Persian — ‘Gar Firdaus bar roo-e zamin ast...’ — have been appropriated by many places, from the Diwan-i-khas in Red Fort to the beautiful gardens in the Vale. But for us, nothing fits the eulogy more aptly than an al fresco lunch, savoured lovingly and leisurely, soaking in the winter sun at Olive Restaurant and Bar in Mehrauli — the brainchild of restaurateur AD Singh.Years have rolled by, but the bliss hasn’t faded. A recent meal there stirred happy memories. There was a surfeit of riches — starters that were gluttonously devoured and desserts to die for, like the pistachio baklava.To begin with, Chef Pranav surprised us with a wonderful European take on ‘shakarkand aur kamrakh ki chaat’, a seasonal delight in many cities and towns in North India that he and Chef Dhruv have created for Epicurean palates.What came on the plate was a flaky, multi-layered cube with a pleasantly charred exterior, a sour tang with a tantalising aftertaste that didn’t rely on the plebeian black rock salt. After all, there is a difference between slumming-splurging on the streets and fine dining.What we feasted on can’t be easily replicated at home. The ambience, the excellence of service and the alchemy that surpasses magic — a blend of top quality ingredients and chefs who improvise like maestros in the realm of music and painting.However, we firmly believe that the reach of home cooks should always exceed their grasp. Focus on the quality of ingredients, make the most of labour-saving equipment at home, don’t shy away from premium packaged products or readily available hummus, cheeses, balsamic vinegar, sun-dried tomatoes and relishes, and you can hardly go wrong.The recipe we share with our readers isn’t purloined from the Olive repertoire and doesn’t claim to be based on field-work research to mesmerise the gourmet with a jaded palate. It aspires to be a lyrical farewell to a particularly chilly winter, penned by someone who loves shakarkandi in all its forms — ‘kosher kheer’ traditionally prepared on days of ritual fasting and vegan kebabs.You may drizzle the tikka lookalike with honey-mustard dressing, or even good old bottled kasundi. Sometimes, the short-cuts are as rewarding as the long and scenic route.Shakarkand chaat with European twistIngredientsSweet potatoes (medium) 3Avocado (medium, scoop out the flesh and mash) 1Ricotta/feta cheese (crumbled) 50 gmHummus 2 tbspOlive oil 2 tbspPaprika/chilli flakes 1 tspBlack peppercorns (coarsely ground fresh) 1 tspGarlic powder 1/2 tspSalt To tasteLeh berry/Seabuckthorn juice 1 tsp(or any souring agent of choice)MethodPeel and cut 2-3 medium sweet potatoes into 1-2 inch cubes or roundsfor bite-sized pieces.Toss with 1-2 tbsp olive oil, salt, pepper, garlic powder, paprika.Preheat air fryer to 400°F, then arrange the cubes in a single layer in the basket to avoid overcrowding.Air fry for 12 minutes, shaking the basket well or flipping halfway to ensure that the cubes are evenly cooked andacquire a crispy exterior.Slice the cubes into three even layers. Place on each layer some avocado mash, cheese or hummus to makea multi-tier mini-sandwich.Top it with juice of your choice right before popping it into the mouth.— The writer is a food historian

Foodtalk: Good old shakarkandi reimagined

From street-side comfort food, shakarkandi makes a graceful leap as it gets a European makeover

Pushpesh Pant

Foodtalk: Good old shakarkandi reimagined

From street-side comfort food, shakarkandi makes a graceful leap as it gets a European makeover

Pushpesh Pant

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