Poonch: Where borders, heritage meet

My first visit to Poonch, a sleepy border town tucked in the picturesque Pir Panjal hills of western Jammu and Kashmir, was in November 2005. The town was still reeling from the devastating earthquake that had struck in October that year. As part of an INTACH team tasked with assessing the damage to cultural heritage in the region, our mission spanned Poonch, Jammu and Reasi. The journey was sombre, our hearts heavy as we documented destruction, took photographs, and interviewed locals who were trying to rebuild their lives.

The journey to Poonch was arduous, winding through rugged terrain and damaged roads. By the time we arrived, the sun had set, casting a fiery orange glow over the hills — a breathtaking contrast to the devastation around us. The next morning revealed the full scale of the earthquake’s destruction. Buildings lay in rubble, and families sifted through debris, salvaging what they could. Yet, amid the ruins, the rich architectural heritage of Poonch stood as a quiet proof to its once-thriving past. Poonch has endured not one but two monumental tragedies — the Partition of 1947, which split the region into ‘Indian Poonch’ and ‘Pakistan Poonch’, and the 2005 earthquake.

Despite its tragic history, Poonch’s heritage speaks volumes about its vibrant past. As a jagir, Poonch flourished during the reign of Raja Moti Singh, whose vision brought significant architectural development to the region. Poonch boasts of a number of prominent buildings such as the Poonch Fort, Bagh Deodi, the Town Hall, and several aristocratic bungalows, bearing the title of ‘mahal’ — all reflecting an architectural blend of Kashmiri, colonial and vernacular influences.

During our assessment, we traversed the entire old city and while the Poonch Fort stood out, the one building that left a lasting impression was the Town Hall. Built as a multipurpose cultural space in the late 19th century, it hosted cultural performances before falling into decline post-Partition, serving as a grain storage facility and partly as a municipality office. Its grand papier mache ceiling and ornate jharokas hinted at its former glory, but the earthquake had damaged it substantially.

We also visited the Saran, or serai, a sprawling complex and a cultural hub for traders before 1947. After Partition, it became a refuge for displaced families, many of whom still live there. Over time, the grand complex was divided into smaller units.

Another fascinating site was the Moti Mahal. Built in 1926 by Raja Sukhdev Singh, its tall circular towers and steep roofs resemble Scottish manor houses. Located near the Garhi Jungle, the Raja’s private hunting grounds, the palace grounds boast of 200-year-old trees and exotic birds. Post-Partition, the palace became the headquarters of Brig Pritam Singh’s 93 Brigade.

Apart from these grand buildings, the vernacular architecture of Poonch also stood out. Traditional houses featured central courtyards, ornate gateways, carved eaves and intricate wooden porticos, illustrating the skill of local craftsmen and taste of the builders. The town was also once a bustling trading hub, as demonstrated by the now-dilapidated Syndicate Building. Constructed between 1896 and 1898, it served as a business centre, primarily for cloth merchants. During Partition, it became a refuge for displaced families. The surrounding area, once a thriving wholesale textile market, now bears little resemblance to its former self.

As we supervised the partial restoration of the fort, I made several visits to Poonch and forged lasting connections with its people. Their stories of Partition were both heart-wrenching and inspiring. One such story came from a family forced to leave their home during Partition. Decades later, visitors from Pakistan sought them out. As the families met, the mother asked if their farm, fruit trees and the baolis still existed. To her amazement, the visitors confirmed that they did. Upon returning to Pakistan, they sent water from the baolis and fruits from the farm as a gesture of goodwill — a poignant reminder of shared heritage and community bond.

Another emotional moment was standing at Zero Line, the last checkpost near the LoC. From there, I could see twinkling evening lights of villages on the Pakistan side. There was something sad about these villages that were all part of the same cultural and geographical landscape up until 1947.

In October 2008, a historic agreement between India and Pakistan facilitated cross-LoC trade and visitation. Trade routes opened between Salamabad and Chakoti, and Chakkan-da-Bagh and Rawalakot. The iconic decorated trucks from Pakistan were a sight to behold as they slowly made their way into the Trade Centre. Cross-border visitation also allowed families separated by Partition to reunite. On the day the Poonch-Rawalakot bus arrived or departed, the air was thick with emotion. Families wept, hugged, and clung to one another. Sadly, after skirmishes at the border, these services have been suspended.

Poonch, despite its tragedies, remains a town of resilience, rich in heritage and human spirit. While it retains its picturesque charm amid verdant mountains and terraced fields, its historic fabric is rapidly diminishing, overshadowed by hybridised modern constructions. The neglect and lack of meaningful conservation efforts have stripped Poonch of its soul, leaving its heritage unrecognisably altered and its stories fading into oblivion.

— The writer is Principal Conservation Architect, INTACH, J&K