Geneva: Every inch international
By Kamaljit Singh

MAGNIFICENTLY situated on the banks of the largest lake, Leman, in central Europe, at the foot of Jura mountains and at the Alps, Geneva has all that is needed to charm a traveller. The city whose rich past is still alive is a true international capital with varied aspects which run from its humanitarian commitment, varied cultural activities, major congresses, exhibitions, renowned cuisine, beautiful countryside to the opportunities for different excursions.

As a traditional meeting place for more than two thousand years, Geneva has a population of about 4,00,000, and one-third thereof comes from about 170 countries. Considered as the "City of Peace" it houses some 200 international organisations and NGOs, including the headquarters of World Trade Organisation and the office of the United Nations to which over 170 diplomatic missions are accredited. The League of Nations had headquarters here mainly at the instance of President Woodrow Wilson in 1919.

Geneva has its history going into distant past. An abrupt turning in its history came in 16th century when the works of Luther reached the city. In 1536 the reformation and the Republic were proclaimed and Calvin was called to Geneva to build ‘Protestant Rome’. Since Calvin founded his academy in 1559, Geneva has been a renowned university and scientific centre, which has welcomed eminent scientists and researchers. In 16th and 17th centuries, it served as a place of refuge for the Protestants persecuted in their own countries. Gradually in the 18th century the town developed into a major banking centre, an industrial city developing precious arts and watchmaking, enamel work and a capital of the sciences and paintings. Voltaire contributed to the reputation of city which received him. In 1815 Geneva became a Swiss canton. The world renowned Red Cross had its birth here in 1863 by Henery Dunant. Psychologist Jean Piaget made it the capital of human knowledge.

The vogue of tourism marked the first urban changes of the banks of the lake and of the Rhone in the centre of town. The neo-classic transformation of the small town which at the beginning of the 19th century had a population of only 25,000 went hand-in-hand with the modernisation of hotel trade and the beginning of pleasure cruises on the lake on steam boats.

Having keen interest in international relations and law my idea of going to Geneva was to see the United Nations offices, but during my three-day stay I discovered to my amazement that the city offers something for everyone with 101 ideas for exploring its rich heritage and achievements.

As Paris has its Eiffel Tower, New York its statue of Liberty, Geneva has its Jet d’Eau fountain as its symbol which decorates the bank of the Lake Leman with its white plume of water. Located downstream from the Rhone, it was originally a release of water by security valve. Now a pumping station throws up 500 litres of water a second 140 metres up in the air at a speed of 200 km per hour. In the evening it is illuminated by eight projectors. It is turned off in the event of high winds to prevent the spray from soaking passersby. The cruises of an hour or an evening are available at a reasonable cost to discover the enchanting shores of the lake. The view of the city from the lake is enchanting.

All cities have their historical centre and Geneva is no exception with its oldest buildings perched upon a hill, topped by a cathedral. Walking is the best way to discover the old town. The promenade de la Treille (the Vine-Arbour walk) gets its name from a vineyard which was planted way back in the 14th century. The grapes have disappeared now but the path leads to enough drinking spots to still deserve its name. The old town houses numerous antique shops, art galleries and typical bistros. The parks and flower-lined quays are a haven for walks and strolls. The "Wall of the Reformers" in ‘Parc des Bastions’ is a commemorative monument dedicated not to one man, but to the entire Reform movement. As John Calvin had always refused to be honoured, that’s why there is no monument devoted exclusively to his glory. The year 1909 marked his 400th birth anniversary and so began the construction of wall in that year.

The monument is backed by a part of the ancient walls that surrounded the city until the middle of the 19th century. At the centre of the wall, five metres high, are the four great figures of the movement Guillaume Farel, one of the first to preach the reforms in Geneva John Calvin, Theodore de Beze, the first rector of academy, and John Knox, founder of Presbyterianism in Scotland. Behind is the motto of Reformation and of Geneva ‘Post Tenebras Lux’. At the end two important dates are inscribed; 1536, when Geneva ratified edicts of Reformation, and 1602 when it repelled the ‘Escalade’ attempted by the Duke of Savoy. By strolling hundred metres along the wall one can discover 150 years of the history of Protestantism. In December special ‘Escalade’ celebrations are held during which a 17th century costumed parade winds its way through the old town to commemorate the battle which took place on Dec 11, 1602.

While moving in old town one cannot escape noticing the glittering superb gilded cupolas atop the only Russian church in Geneva. The church has an interesting history. Conscious of the diversity of population and respect of religious freedom, James Fazy, father of Geneva’s constitution, assured that each religion would be able to conduct its services. Orthodox Russians living there were given the possibility of building their church, but a benefactor was needed. One came forward in the person of Tsar Alexander Ist. The site granted was that of an ancient Benedictive priory destroyed in 16th century. The work started in 1863 under the supervision of Gulliband, a Geneva architect, and within three years it was erected in pure Byzantine Muscovite style. Inside it one finds admirable decoration and numerous icons of the 16th to 19th centuries. Sonia, the daughter of Dostovsky, was baptised here in May, 1868, but unfortunately she died a few days later.

The city has some 30 museums, with prominent ones like Museum of Watchmaking, Natural History, Modern & Contemporary Art, Red Cross and Red Crescent etc. In the Clock and Watch Museum, the watches, clocks, pendulums, large and small, painted on gold or copper, little gold pieces, snuff boxes, jewels, miniature, portraits and engravings show the incredible creative force which inspired these. The International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum introduce one to the universe of love and hate, of rifts and solidarity by evoking the main events that have marked history, from the battle of Solferino in 1859, to the origin of the Red Cross, to our own times.

When one passes the gate of the ‘Palais des Nations’ one enters international land in which nearly all the nations of the world are represented. Here over three thousand civil servants work towards the mission of peace, security and the dignity of man. In the massive elegant building with tastefully laid out lawns is the largest centre on UNO after New York. A guided tour of the complex enables you to see conference hall, particularly the Council Room, decorated with superb frescoes and the Assembly room. It was here that General Assembly session was held when USA refused visa to PLO leader Yassar Arafat in late 80s. One may wish to sign the Golden book for peace by contributing a small amount as fee. Your name will remain there for ever. The Rockfeller Library, one of the largest libraries in the world with one million volume and fifteen million documents, is also housed here.

The offices of many international organisations are located amidst the lush greenery in the city. One can visit the High Commission of UN for Refugees. Its visitors’ centre in Rue Montbrilliant provides information about its activities.

In relation to its population, Geneva ranks top in the world for the number of restaurants. It has more than eleven hundred restaurants and offers an extremely vast and varied range of cuisines from all over the world. According to whims, one can sample food from any part of world in the small restaurants, the country inns or in the elegant restaurants overlooking the lake. For a South Asian traveller it is not difficult to get delicious Indian or Pakistani foods at Shahi Food, Cornavin or at the Taj Hotel.

While walking across the Mont Blanc bridge over Rhone one finds the famous flower clock, a symbol of Geneva’s watch industry. It is located on an incline at the edge of Jardin Anglais, having a diameter of five metres and circumference of 15.7 metres. The 2.5 metre length of its hand gives it the unique distinction of being the longest in the world which covers a distance of 27 cms per second. On the other side of the bridge, walking towards the majestic Hotel Wilson one cannot escape the Brunswick’s monument, an exact reproduction of the 14th century tomb of Scaligeri family in Veronra, Italy.Born in 1804, he was chased from his country because of his indiscretions; came to Geneva to pass the last three years of his life but left a tidy sum. He was eccentric, paranoid with persecution complex but a distinguished linguist, outstanding horseman and musician as well as exceptional investor. The monument was erected as per his will and now it constitutes an important landmark of the city.

The Swiss chocolates of unending varieties, famous all over the world, watches and military knifes are the items which every visitor is tempted to buy. It is amazing to find many shops dealing exclusively in chocolates showcased like sweets in some Indian sweet shop.

The city offers a large variety of shows throughout the year. Every summer classical music concerts are held in courtyard of the town hall, while jazz and brass bands perform in the parks and along the lake. The fair and trade shows keep the inflow of tourists from all over the world steady. The fairs like Automobile Show, the Inventions and New Techniques Fair, the International Book and Press Fair and Watchmaking Fair attract visitors from the continent.