Sawan achamba of Chamba town
Getaway
By K.R. Bharti

CHAMBA, nestling in the bosom of the Himalayas, is a small town overlooking the tumultuous and cascading Ravi. The town was founded by the legendary Raja Verman of Chamba state in 10th century.

No other place can beat Chamba in its natural beauty and its richness of culture. Chamba has been able to retain its rich treasure of historical monuments, temples, arts and culture through the ages. No doubt historians refer to Chamba as achamba (wonder.)

The town celebrates various fairs and festivals. Minjar is considered the most prominent, peculiar and popular fair held in Chamba. This fair is celebrated with great enthusiasm in the town for a week, beginning on the second Sunday of the Sawan month and culminating on the third Sunday of the same month every year. People from all walks of life transcending religion, caste and creed participate in the fair.

According to one belief, Minjar fair symbolises the season when maize is in bloom. In fact, the literal meaning of minjar is maize cobs. Minjars are exchanged between friends and relatives right from the opening day of the fair till the last day when they are finally immersed in the Ravi river as an offering to Lord Varuna or Khawaja Khijar.

As per another belief, in the ancient times the Ravi flowed through the middle of Chowgan. On one side of the river, there was the Champavati temple, and the Hari Rai temple on the other bank. A saint with divine powers who lived near the Champavati temple swam across the river daily to pay obeisance to Lord Hari Rai. Since there was no bridge on the river, other people found it difficult to cross the river.

Once the Raja of Chamba and his subjects prayed to the saint to make it possible for them too to cross the river and visit the Hari Rai temple. The saint lit a pyre and started making a magical cord of seven different colours amidst chanting of mantras. The legend goes on to say that after seven days of yajna, the river changed its course. The cord was immersed in the river. It is believed from that day onwards the Minjar fair was celebrated every year.

Some ascribe the fair to the victories of Raja Sahil Verman ofChamba.When the Raja returned toChamba after his victory over Raja ofKangra, he was given a big welcome at Nallhora bridge, the then gateway to Chamba, by the subjects with offerings of minjars.

Since the fair is always held on a Sunday, it is believed by some that it is associated with worship of Sun. The Rajas of Chamba also belonged to the Suryavanshi line of the Rajputs.

On the last day of the fair, a procession is taken out from Akhand Chandi Palace. It is attended by various dignitaries of the state and by prominent citizens of the town with colourful turbans on their heads. Lord Raghuvir seated in a palanquin leads the procession, and is followed by palanquins of goddesses. Behind them the royal flags and emblems are exhibited. Then come the traditional drum beaters and cultural troops who perform on the way the procession winds its way through the town to a place called Nallohra, near the Police Lines, from where the minjars are thrown into the river.

When the Rajas reigned, a live male buffalo was thrown into the river as a sacrifice to the river god. The animal was then closely watched as its fate was believed to forecast the prosperity or adversity that would befall the state as well as the reigning family. If the buffalo was carried away by the waters and got drowned, it was considered a good omen, for it meant the end of all evils that would inflict the ruling family and the state. If the buffalo crossed over alive to the other bank, it was considered propitious again as it meant the transfer of sins to the other side of the river. But if the buffalo swam alive and emerged on the same side, it was taken to be an ill-omen and some calamity was feared in the future. In such an eventuality the buffalo was retained till the following year when it was again thrown into the river.

This practice has since been discontinued. Now a coconut, a rupee, a seasonal fruit and minjar, all tied in a piece of red cloth called Lohan are immersed in the Ravi by the chief guest and then by the people assembled there. The place echoes with seasonal songs, Kunjri-malhars, melodiously sung by local singers. Ud ud kunjriye varsa dhiade ho (The beloved conveys message to her lover through a bird kunjdi that sawan has come and he should be back home). Similar feelings of love are conveyed in another song Vadra Mera Piya Pardesh, Des gayo Sawan Ayo re.

It is a thrilling and exciting experience to be in the procession. Men, women and children of Chamba, elegantly and colourfully attired throng the streets, road sides, rooftops of their houses and some even climb up trees to perch themselves comfortably to watch the great procession.

The town acquires the look of a bride during the fair. The historically famous Chowgan of Chamba is the main venue of the fair. It remains jampacked the whole week long. Merry-go-rounds, a mini zoo, magic shows, sale of lottery tickets, cultural programmes, exhibitions, sports, film shows, all add to the charm and festivity of the fair.