A package hard to resist
Getaway
By Aziz Haider

UNLESS you are a regular visitor to the mountains, the chances are that you will not recognise bichu booti — a small plant that causes burning sensation and pains if you happen to touch its leaves. This is one plant that is found in plenty in the Kumaon region and you have to safeguard yourself from its ‘bite’, especially when you go out for walks on the mountain slopes. Once you begin to recognise this plant, and train your eyes to spot it, be rest assured that your Kumaon experience will prove to be one of the most exhilarating and exotic of all your sojourns to the mountains.

Sojourning in the beautiful Kumaon region of Uttar Pradesh, with its majestic mountains, beautiful lakes and a rich plethora of flora and fauna, leaves you in awe of nature’s munificence that the land is blessed with. The pristine magnificence of these natural wonders combined with a rich cultural and religious heritage, makes a package that is hard to resist.

Kumaon is made up of the districts of Nainital, Almora, Pithoragarh and Udham Singh Nagar. During this trip, we will traverse through Nainital and Almora districts. Our odyssey starts from Almora town, the cultural capital of the region.

Situated at an elevation of 5400 feet, Almora was founded in 1560 by the Chand ruler, Balo Kalyan Chand. It served as the Chand capital up to the 18th century. The Gorkhas ruled for about 25 years, after which it came under British control till Independence. When the British went on their hill-station founding spree, Almora, was already and established town. In fact, Almora suffered heavy bombardment by the Britishers in their attempt to capture the town. That’s why it is not in the list of 80-odd hill stations that the British created as an answer to their second home concept. Unlike Shimla, Nainital, Ranikhet — North Indian hill stations discovered and patronised by the British — Almora is a truly Indian hill resort.

At Almora, you can feel the traditional ambience when you catch a glimpse of tiled-roof houses and paved streets with the panoramic view of the Trishul peaks in the north. Beautifully carved facades and homes decorated with traditional murals reflect the heritage of the place. And being further away from the plains than Nainital, Almora district provides several scenic spots where you can enjoy the fresh mountain air without having to jostle against the milling holiday-makers.

You can set out for some of the most exciting excursions from Almora. At Chitai, 8 km from Almora, lies the shrine of Gollu Devta, the much loved deity of the Kumaonis, Lakhu-Udyar (16 km away), literally meaning ‘one lakh caves,’ is noted for its pre-historic wall paintings, where the chief specimen is a hood-like rock shelter, you can go to Sheetalkhet (35 km away) to watch the sunset or to Gwalkot (26 km away) to fish for mahseer on the Kosi river.

Merely 30 km from Almora lies Binsar (2412mts) from where you can get a breathtaking view of the Himalayas and the surrounding valley. It offers an uncluttered view of a 300-km stretch of famous peaks which include Kedarnath, Chaukhamba, Trishul, Nanda Devi, Nanda Kot and Panchuli. Binsar also has beautiful forests of oak and rhododendron and abounds in alpine flora, ferns, hanging moss and innumerable species of wild flowers.

For the religiously inclined, Almora also has Jageshwar (35 km away). Located in a narrow riverine valley enclosed by towering, ancient deodars, it is famous for having one of the twelve jyotirlingas and the 164 ornamented temples built by the Chand rulers. It is believed that Lord Shiva came here to perform penance after the sacrifice of Sati, land earned the wrath of the Sapta Rishis. The elaborate carvings on every door jamb, pillar and outer wall of the temples make it a place of interest even for those who are less religiously inclined.

Set out from Almora for Kausani (53 km away), your base for the next couple of days. En route you pass through the broad fertile valley at Someshwar, where tourists make a halt to visit the fine Shiva temple built in Katyur style. Proceed on to the famous hill resort of Kausani. Sitting on a narrow ridge among pine forests, it presents an excellent view of the Nanda Devi mountains, especially at sunrise. You may trek from here to Bageshwar, Gwaldam and the Pindari glacier, but for that you’ll have to stay for a few more days.

A mere 18 km away from Kausani, at 1125 metres, lies the temple town of Baijnath on the banks of the Gomti river. The beautifully located temples, built in the 12th and 13th centuries here, are fine examples of regional architecture. Legend has it that Shiva married Parvati at the confluence of the Gomti and the Garur Ganga and it became the seat of power of their son Kartikya Swami. The Katyur dynasty, which ruled the valley of 500 years, took its name from this mythical son of Shiva and Parvati.

Next, move on to Bageshwar at a distance of 22 km. Lying on both banks of the Sarju, river near its confluence with Gomti, it is said to derive its name Vyagheshwar(the tiger Lord) from the local temple of Lord Shiva. It is known for the famous temple of Lord Bag Nath (Shiva) erected by the Chand Raja, Laxmi Chand, around 1450 AD. This pilgrim town is also the base for treks to Pindari. Kafni and Sunderdhunga glaciers (all in Almora district). The Pindari trek leads to Zero point (4000mts) near the snout of the Pindari glacier after traversing a distance of 45 kms.

Time now to move to the charming and unpolluted hill station of Ranikhet, a town steeped with British legacy. En route, you may take a diversion from Someshwar to reach Dwarahat or proceed straight via Gwalakot to reach Ranikhet. Dwarahat has a cluster of old temples built by the Chand rajas, dating back to the 8th century. There are some old houses and beautiful carved wooden doors and windows. You could walk through its quaint, narrow lanes which is likely to remind you of some old Italian village.

There is an ambience about Ranikhet that is hard to describe. Situated at 1829 metres, this sylvan retreat offers an interesting mix of hill and military cultures. According to a legend, a queen (rani) in the course of a journey came to this excursion ground (shetra) and was so enchanted by it that she decided to settle here. At another point of time, Lord Mayo, the viceroy of India, was so enchanted with the place that he wanted to move the army’s summer headquarters here from Shimla. That did not happen but Ranikhet continues to charm visitors with its spectacular beauty.

Ranikhet presents a panoramic view of the Himalayas. The ridge along which the town is located is surrounded by forests of oak and pine where nature lovers go for enjoyable walks. On the whole, it is an ideal holiday destination for nature lovers who continue to get enthralled by its major attraction. Other places of interest, apart from its natural beauty, are a nine-hole golf course, the orchards of Chaubatia and the Jhoola Devi Temple. The famous Kumaon Regimental Centre stands here and you must have a look at its museum which houses the sword of Rani Laxmibai.

Five kilometres from Ranikhet is Chillianaula, where stands a magnificent Shiva temple. Managed by a group of foreigners, a breathtaking view of the Himalayas can be savoured from Chillanaula as well. Majkhali (13 km away and Chaubatia (10 km away) are known for their extraordinary beauty. Picnickers flock to the lake at Bhaludam (13 km) while anglers converge on Khairna (24 km).

This brings you to an end of the mountain trail that started at Almora. Unlike other hill stations, the region is so isolated that B.R. Kachru, the General Manager of Snow View Resort near Almora talks of having to put behind bars the watch dogs every night for fear of being attacked by wild beasts. Local folks even swear to the instances when they encountered a panther, face to face. And shrubs like bichu booti continue to grow on the mountain slopes, sometimes to torment the visitors.