119 Years of Trust

THE TRIBUNE

Saturday, July 24, 1999

This above all
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For a romantic feel...
Fashion
By Anjana Sarin

FEELING romantic does not have anything to do with age or the weather. Nor does it have much to do with how you look. As any shrink would tell you, you need to get into the mood. And what could be any better than the right clothes for the right frame of mind?

Designers are extending the concept of romantic dressing to monsoon wearWith modern-day designers determined to play Dr Feel Good, traditional concepts of fabric options, colour schemes, styling and trends are turning increasingly redundant. They would rather talk about job profile, family background and even match colour with zodiac signs!

The idea is clearly to radiate happiness — to be able to feel young, vibrant and romantic at heart. So if Monisha Jaisingh creates a medley of colour and craft, Tarun Tahiliani works around soft and flowing printed salwar kameezes.

Likewise, Raghavendra Rathore’s blacks strike at achieving the draped and sculpted form while Madhu Jain brings in white and gold for that special look and feel. These are some top-of-the-rung lines brought out by the most respected designers in India today.

The anxiety to capture the spirit of youth is also evident in Lester Manuel’s fun collection in shades of navy, red and white. Bhairavi Jaikishan has some figure-hugging and sexy outfits using roses with three-dimensional petals in bright acid tones.

Then there’s Bhairavi’s mother, Pallavi Jaikishan, venturing a step beyond into dreamy images of feminity with tulle accompanied by a sprinkling of embroidery while Rajul Mohan sticks to traditional wear in shades of ecru, white, peach, green and yellow.

There are of course, many other options beyond what designers could prescribe, depending upon personal taste, the occasion and attitude. For instance, metallic tissue could stir romantic feelings in one while wispy silks and lace could do the magic in another.

Many youngsters are known to opt for the unconventional with the layered, and at times kinky look in ethnic wear to capture the spirit of romance. Elders may find those outfits outrageous, but like music and good food, there are no firm rules to dictate personal preferences in hi-fashion.

What does finally work though, is guesswork and suggestions. Ornate sarees, A-line kurtas and streamlined ghagra-cholis are proven favourites, just as the time-tested colours of pink, mushroom and lime that go into celebrating the feminine form.

Likewise, there can be no questions raised on the unfussy use of crepes, sandwashed georgettes and silks, combined with knits, viscose and lycra in slim-fitting, sleek clothes which project the princess line silhouette.

Designers are even extending the concepts of romantic dressing to monsoon wear. This is only natural in a country where a quarter of the year is spent under the umbrella and more so, when the rains have always been associated with romance.

So there is a conscious effort now to coordinate raincoats with dresses — the latter made of synthetic material. There are also printed raincoats as well as flared, short ones and ones with cape-like effects with coloured piping.

A designer like Divya Shah, who used to design ethnic and bridal wear, has now diversified into a rainwear-and-umbrella collection, while Payal Singhal is offering transparent raincoats, to be worn with funky fluorescent minis underneath.

There’s also Pawan Aswani who has created a special monsoon line of ethnic wear. It is in the wash ‘n’ wear blends and polyesters for short salwars — almost ankle length — and still shorter kameezes and short jackets to ward off the water.

Aswani advises his clients to spray the garments with scotch guard water repellent to keep them waterproof. He refuses to use plastic or vinyl (except for the 2.5 m dupatta which comes in a narrow version and is more functional than fashionable) and sticks to sage green and blue shades.

Other options available are fashionable wrap-around skirts, loose jackets and coats with waterproofing treatment done all over. Menswear has gone through a slight evolution with the windcheater taking over from ordinary raincoats.

Not-so-ordinary raincoats are cut on the trapeze line with delicate printing on them. Once again, the emphasis is on the uncluttered look. But then ultimately, it is all there in the head. Designer clothes can at best get you in a certain frame of mind. (MF)back


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