A visit to the beautiful port city
By Reeta Sharma

TRAVELLING has been a passion with me right from my childhood. While travelling within India and abroad, I am driven by an acute desire of knowing and exploring places.

The first thing I wish to know before going to a place is whether it has a green cover or not? Yes, the place has to be very green to attract my attention. Otherwise, my mind rejects it. This quaint streak of mine I discovered when I flew to Ladakh. I had no clue as to how the place looked. I was excitedly looking forward to drinking in the beauty of Ladakh. However, I was shocked when the plane landed at the base of barren hills. I felt acutely depressed. It took me two days to recover, and that too only when I discovered lush green patches at the army and Air Force bases and at the monasteries.

Vishakhapatnam, on the other hand, enchanted me the moment I landed there. Although my mind was preoccupied with the tragic and untimely death of a beautiful lady yet the greenery of the place had a soothing influence on me. This lady had come into my life only about a year back. Warm-hearted and an epitome of truthfulness, she left an indelible mark on me. These virtues of her made me travel to this far-off coastal town to condole her death. The lush greenery acted as a tranquilliser to help me recover from the despondency caused by her sudden death.

Why do you think Vishakhapatnam is so green? There are two reasons--- Chief Minister (Andhra Pradesh) Chandrababu Naidu has successfully motivated people of his state to act on the slogan: "Clean and Green 2000". Secondly, the family of this beautiful lady planted 10 trees in her memory. Yes, people there plant trees on any occasion, be it a tragic or a happy one following an age-old tradition established through the Vedas.

Vishakhapatnam is popularly called ‘Vizag’. This name was given to it by the British as they could not pronounce its full name. This district is one of the north-eastern coastal districts of Andhra Pradesh. Its boundary towards the north partly touches Orissa and partly Vizianagaram district. Towards its south, it’s surrounded by the East Godavari district, on the west again by Orissa and on the east by the Bay of Bengal.

As per historical records, Vishakhapatnam was originally a part of the Kalinga Kingdom which was subsequently conquered by the Chalukyas in the 7th century. The district was also under the occupation of rulers like Reddy Rajahs of Kondaveedu, Gajapathis of Orissa, nawabs of Golcunda and even the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb through a subedar. Later, this territory passed under French occupation primarily because of the dispute about succession among various Andhra kings. Finally, the British manoeuvred their way to claim the territory.

Until 1936, there were no geographical grafting of Vishakhapatnam. However a couple of taluks were transferred to Orissa during its formation by the British. Vishakhapatnam district was reconstituted with the residuary portions of Ganjam district. It was still too huge and administratively unwieldy, therefore, it had to be split into Srikakulam and Vishkhapatnam districts in 1950. It had to face yet another division in 1979.

Today, this district displays two distinct geographical features: it has bewitching coastal plains and hilly areas. The Eastern Ghats, flanking it on the north and the west, consist of hilly regions that go up to 1200 metres.

All domes of the temples in Vizaq, small as well as big ones, are painted golden yellow. In fact, they are the first to attract your attention when the aeroplane begins descending at Vishakhapatnam. I enquired about the reason for the yellow domes from everyone I bumped into, but I did not receive any convincing answer. Babji, a bright young APRO of the district, only added to my bemusement by saying, "I think golden yellow is a favourite colour of the people of Vishakhapatnam. All autorickshaws are also painted with the same colour. Even the Telugu Desam party’s flag is of the same colour".

Whenever I step out of Chandigarh, every place appears massive with hordes of people and distances which refuse to end. Guess my bewilderment, when I began exploring Vishakhapatnam, a district with a population of over 45 lakh people. The straight roads along the coastal area appeared to be taking me nowhere for they almost refused to end. Vishakhapatnam is not a laid-back district, though people do walk or drive on the roads as if there was none else anywhere near them. Honking of horns elicits no response from anyone. This city has witnessed unprecedented growth on the industrial front in the past two decades yet nearly 70 per cent households depend on agriculture for their livelihood.

Unfortunately, only about 30 per cent of the agricultural land is under irrigation because of the absence of a major irrigation system. Farmers have to mainly depend upon the monsoon. The coastal area, about 132 km long, provides yet another major source of livelihood — "fishing". The pride of Vishakhapatnam is, of course, its steel plant with a share capital of Rs 7,466 crore and a licensed capacity of 2.8 million tonnes of saleable steel, 3 million tonnes of pig iron and 8.32 lakh tonnes as byproduct.

Vishakhapatnam, a beautiful port city with a natural harbour, still retains its ancient charm. As usual, I could not stand the tamed beach within the city. However, on the outskirts of the city, you find a natural untouched beach that beckons you. The well maintained Kailash Giri hill is like a glittering crown on the majestic Bay of Bengal.

However, for a tourist it is the Araku valley that is most inviting . Spread over 120 km, it looks exactly like the European countryside. For miles together, you can drive without seeing any habitation. At places you catch a glimpse of beautifully maintained thatched -roof huts or small dream-like houses covered with red tiles. The entire valley is replete with nature’s bounty and is almost untouched by the human race.

The Eastern Ghats primarily consist of a tribal belt which prohibits outsiders from settling or buying land there. Interestingly, the Araku valley has an horticulture nursery- cum-training centre and a government-run silkfarm along with a mulberry garden. Wrapped in mystery, the Araku valley also unfolds surprise for its visitors — it houses a railway station called "Shimli Gura", constructed at the highest altitude.

One of the ancient temples famous for its architectural splendour is also in Vishakhapatnam. Situated on the Simhachalam range of hills at a distance of about 15-16 km from the main city, it provides a breathtaking view of the area.The exalted architecture would surely make any Indian proud of his heritage.

While travelling towards the Araku valley from Vishakhapatnam, there is yet another nature’s creation — Bhora caves — which leaves you awestruck. These caves, of geological and historical importance, are a natural formation on the Eastern Ghats in a place called Ananthagiri Mandal. Inside the caves, there is a Shivalingam with water dripping from the Ghosthani river.

The Araku valley unfolds yet another treasure hidden in its belly when you arrive at Peta. This place lies in Golugonda Mandal. At this villages rests one of our brave, self-respecting Indians-- Alluri Seetharama Raju. An educated person of his times, he happened to witness tribals of this area being used as slaves by the British rulers. He could not digest the indignities being heaped upon hapless men, women and children. He vowed to fight the British with the indigenous gulel. In one day, he attacked three police stations, and the British gunning for him. He became a messiah for the tribals. Eventually, the British captured him and shot him after tying him to a tree. Apart from the tribals who worship him, anyone who visits the village begins to revere and adulate this soldier of Mother India after hearing about his selfless sacrifice.