Looking for peace in the mountains
By Christoph Kohler

SIPPING hot coffee in cold weather at 2 a.m. at the foot of Adam’s Peak, trying to be fully awake after a neck-breaking mini bus drive through the hill country of Sri Lanka is not what many would call a desirable holiday pleasure. But Adam’s Peak is not just like any other peak, it is well worth the effort.

The peak has many names, and draws the attention of many devotees from different religions to it. Some believe that Samanalakande, the mountain where butterflies go to die, is the place where Adam first set foot on earth after he was cast out of heaven. Some claim that the footprints on top belong to Buddha, St. Thomas, or even Lord Shiva. It has been a pilgrimage centre for more than 1000 years, and whichever mythology you believe in, if you climb up the 2224 m. peak, taking roughly three hours, you will experience the unforgettable view of the most magnificent dawn one can imagine. A fantastic spectacle inviting to show how beautiful, eternal our world is — a new pure day smiling every 24 hours.

To stand on top of Adam’s Peak at a time the day is dawning requires a very early start, somewhere between 2 a.m. and 3 a.m. You may also climb up in the evening, for which a good sleeping bag and a thermos of coffee is warmly recommended. The best choice for getting some hours of rest before ascending is to arrive at the starting point of the path the evening before you attempt the climb. Most of the tea stalls around provide some sort of accommodation.

Most pilgrims choose the shorter route, approximately 7 k.m. from the settlement of Dalhousie. The path is all the way lit, allowing a decent glimpse of the millions of stars that illuminate the night sky. Still, it is wise to carry a torch, just in case. The first half-an-hour is a nice gradual stroll through tea estates. Once you reach the Japanese-Sri Lanka Friendship Pagoda, the path gets steeper and steeper, requiring more and more frequent ‘catch-some-breath’ breaks, till it ends in a flight of steps. Refreshment stalls are scattered all along the way where you can buy water, tea and biscuits.

Bring some warm clothes with you to cope with the chilly wind blowing on the summit. After an exercise like this, sweating and tiring, you are very prone to catch a cold. To reach the top long before dawn is not a bad idea. You are up there to enjoy yourself. If you still think it’s boring to wait for the sun to pop out, you can write a letter. A mail-box is provided. Wander around the fascinating temple, have a look at the huge footprints and search for a nice place, facing the east, to experience the sunrise. Even though it can get rather busy on the summit, the atmosphere is very relaxing and peaceful, sitting high above the mist of clouds looking into a never-ending horizon.

The sunrise itself takes more than an hour, from the first yellowish-reddish, shimmering rays of light at the horizon, shining through the mist, until a red ball of fire rises up towards the zenith. It’s a breathtaking show of power and beauty, making us humans tiny creatures. Some minutes after this spectacle has finished, the sun mildly warms up the surroundings. The next amazing treat for the eye and soul is scene on the western side. The rising sun casts a perfect triangular shadow of the peak in the misty clouds underneath you.

Walking down, you have two choices — a longer path leads to Ratnapura, or you simply take the path who used to climb up. Whichever route you choose, it will be much more relaxing than walking up, and if you decide to walk the same way down as up, it will be an entirely different experience, since this time you actually see the countryside you are walking through. The stream of pilgrims slowly makes its way downhill, chanting mantras — some younger fellows running down the steps as if they have an important meeting, singing and chatting here and there. Everybody is full of joy and happiness, their souls are filled with the warm experience of togetherness and the powerful display of Mother Nature.