Darshani Deori — Amritsar’s sacred past

Darshani Deori — ignored yet a significant structure — stands in the heart of Amritsar surrounded by Guru Bazaar and Bazaar Mai Sevan.

This historical gateway, now a small gurdwara, came up in early stages, when Amritsar’s cityscape was still shaping itself under the spiritual guidance of Sikh Gurus.

Associated with the fifth Sikh Master, Guru Arjan Dev, Darshani Deori once marked the entrance to Amritsar. It stood on the path that led devotees from two sacred sites, Guru Ka Mahal on one side and Darbar Sahib on the other. In those early days, the open expanse between the two meant that pilgrims could catch an unhindered glimpse or “darshan” of the holy shrine from this very point, giving the structure its name “Darshani Deori” meaning “Gateway of the glimpse.”

According to historical records, the present architectural form of “Darshani Deori” was constructed under the patronage of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. He is also credited with naming the nearby marketplace after Mai Sevan, the devout wife of military commander Fateh Singh Kaliawala. Mai Sevan was renowned for her tireless service at Darbar Sahib and was respected by the local populace. The bazaar that bears her name remains a vibrant commercial area but hides within it layers of neglected history.

Residents recall that during the era of Guru Ramdas and Guru Arjan Dev, the stretch between Guru Ka Mahal and Harmandir Sahib was clear of any construction. The devotees arriving from the Guru’s residence would see the stunning shrine reflected in the sarovar and bow their heads in reverence from the very point of the Deori. Such was the spiritual and architectural grace of the place.

Fast forward to the present, and the once-majestic “Darshani Deori” now languishes in a state of neglect. What was once a sacred portal is now choked by a web of overhead wires, shops, houses and unregulated signage.

The carved nakashi and frescoes commissioned during Maharaja Ranjit Singh’s time have faded. The walls, which once bore calligraphy of sacred hymns, are pierced with hooks and nails to hang wires, completely disregarding their sanctity and heritage value.

Though still included on Punjab Tourism’s “heritage walk”, the Deori is overshadowed by the unchecked expansion of nearby structures. Unauthorised construction, extended shops and visual mess now obscure this historic jewel.

Heritage activists and locals have called for urgent intervention. “The historical and spiritual importance of ‘Darshani Deori’ cannot be ignored. It deserves dedicated preservation, not just token inclusion on tourist maps. The Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, Tourism Department and the state government should collaborate to protect and restore it,” said Sandeep Singh, a local activist.