Chapli kebab and the lingering charm of Pashtun cuisine

Pushpesh Pant

CHAPLI KEBAB, the Pashtun kebab from the repertoire of the NWFP cuisine, is arguably the most popular street food in Peshawar, the frontier city in Pakistan. And, that is the cause of all confusion. Another product from the city — hand-crafted chappals (oh so comfortable sandals) — carries the same geographical indicator. Many fall in the trap when quizzed about the chapli kebab. They respond hastily that it resembles the shape of the sandal and is named after it. Actually, the word derives from ‘chapleek’ in Pashto that translates as flat or flattened. The plump kebab indeed resembles a jumbo shami or burger patty pressed flat. It has, in the recent years, emerged from the wings to centrestage and is encountered in Delhi, Bhopal, Hyderabad, and even Lucknow. It is neither spiced subtly with aromatics nor does it melt in the mouth but has an undeniable charm of its own. In Peshawar, it was traditionally prepared with beef but is now available in mutton and chicken versions as well.

We recently savoured a particularly well-turned chapli at Sheraton’s Four Point in Delhi when Chef Vickrham Vicky was curating a Dawat-e-Dastan pop-up there. What he dished out with practised ease and aplomb may be difficult to replicate at home, but we assure you can pan-grill or deep fry a very satisfying succulent chapli without breaking into a sweat. Keeping the temper of the times, we had saved this for our readers for the post-Navratri menu but in time for iftar parties in the month of Ramzan. Do try it out before it gets really hot to splurge on food!

Chapli Kebab

Ingredients

Mince 500 g

Fat 50 g

Onions (small, finely chopped) two

Tomato (medium, chopped fine after deseeding) two

Garlic-ginger paste 1 tsp

Coriander powder 1 tsp

Cumin powder 1 tsp

Garam masala (optional) 1 tsp

Red chilli flakes 1 tsp

Green chillies (deseeded and chopped fine) 1/4 cup

Fresh coriander leaves (chopped fine) 1/2 cup

Gram flour (roasted lightly) 2 tbsp

Egg one

Salt to taste

Oil/ghee to pan grill

Onion rings and lemon wedges for garnish

Method

• Place the mince in a large bowl. Add the fat, onions, tomatoes, chillies and powdered spices, except the salt. Add garlic-ginger paste, roasted gram flour and break the egg into the bowl.
• Mix well, cover and place in fridge for 30 minutes. Just before grilling, add salt and knead once again.
• Divide in equal portions, and shape into round balls, the size of an orange. Press between moist palms to flatten.
• Heat oil in a thick-bottomed or non-stick pan covered with a thin film of oil or ghee. Gently slide the chapli in the pan and grill on medium flame for seven to eight minutes on each side to cook evenly. Serve with a garnish of onion rings and lemon wedges, along with bread.