Straight out of the medieval world

Akash Mehrotra

As  the train crisscrosses the diminutive vines, with the Vosges mountains standing tall  in the backdrop and a romantic spectacle of the ruins of century-old castles catching your eye, mind wanders in search of the folklores of Alsatian Knights and all that inspired and influenced people in the Alsatian region, independent of the politics of Paris.

Alsace, a historical region in northeastern France, harbours the unique tastes of French wines, along with the tumultuous shades of French-German history. Colmar, a small town here, is a proud representative of the spirit of Alsace.

Colmar is famous for Grunewald altarpiece in the Unterlinden Museum, the galleries showcasing paintings of northern European Renaissance, its unique architecture, and the local history and politics that played out independent of the French and German influence. The mere thought of Grunewald sets you on a 45-minute journey on a secondary railroad line from Strasbourg. The panoramic views of the southern segment of the Alsatian route to the destination make this small journey even more enjoyable. 

Territorial tussle

The Alsace region has a tumultuous political history. Colmar has been passed back and forth between France and Germany over the years, as the rivalry between the nations grew. Colmar was conquered by the French in 1673, and by the 1870s, the entire region became a German territory. It stayed under the Germans until after World War I. The Germans again controlled the region during World War II. It was after the collapse of the Nazi empire that Colmar became a French territory. Nevertheless, the German touch, especially in architecture, is hard to miss in this town.

A fairytale town

Known as Little Venice of the region, Colmar could easily fit the bill of a fairytale town — its museums, architectural landmarks and the touch of ancientness could transport you to a different world altogether. A walk around the and the adjoining Fishmonger’s district through winding roads, with cafés lined along a canal, enchanting coloured houses, and buildings with a slice of history, is simply fascinating. The Alsace region has developed in autonomous fashion, independent of the French and German politics and plutocracy. That independence is clearly seen in Colmar. The Alsatians have their own language, spoken widely in the region, the medieval and renaissance houses are well preserved, and shops are still marked with elaborate wrought-iron signs. The Alsatians have preserved their heritage, and Colmar is an exquisite example of Alsatian culture and conviviality.

Culinary treat 

Colmar is a foodie’s delight. A market in the Fishmonger’s district is probably the best place to try out the culinary appeal of the region. The Alsatian gastronomy is world famous. Try Foie gras and choucroute, which originated in the region. The town plays host to a multitude of Michelin star restaurants. Do stop by at some classic restaurants with stained glass windows, butlers in folklore costumes, brightly painted outsides and ceilings — these echo the pro-French wave witnessed at the turn of the century.

Renaissance relic

After taking a full round of the town, with customary snack breaks, head towards one of the most prized Renaissance relics — the Unterlinden Museum, housed in a restored medieval convent. One of the most attractive buildings, the museum hosts a fine collection of decorative objects in addition to Grunewald’s work. The Gothic hall is lined with exhibits, and in the centre stands the bewildering Grunewald’s work. The painting is the principal treasure of the museum. There would probably be a handful of pieces of art that can portray human suffering as the painting with crucifixion, with two Marys and two Johns in attendance, does. The entire hall has a mystic appeal, as if each piece was individualised and crafted with perfection.

The other must-visits are the normal houses of Colmar, which are often lavishly decorated. These houses carry an overwhelming touch of the medieval world, forcing the visitors to go on a clicking frenzy throughout the day. It’s incredible how such a small town, with a population of just 80,000, packs so much history and culture and refuses to conform to the European standards in several walks of life. 

How to get there: Colmar is located on the border of France and Germany, near Switzerland. The nearest big city is Strasbourg, from where it takes 45 minutes in train to reach Colmar. Colmar is in the heart of the French region called Alsace, known for its vineyards and wines.

Best time to visit: May to September

Ideal duration:  Four to seven days