History runs dry at Shah Jahan’s stepwell

Meham, a historic town in Rohtak district of Haryana, used to be famous for three ‘B’s — ber (fruit), baoli (step-well) and bawlas (insane persons). The town is not known for ber and bawlas anymore, but the Mughal-era baoli, constructed in 1658-59 under the regime of Emperor Shah Jahan, still remains intact.

The heritage monument of national importance is named ‘Shah Jahan ki Baoli’ and was also referred to as ‘Spring of paradise’. “This baoli is the finest and the best preserved one in Haryana. It is locally known as ‘Gyani Chor ki Gupha’. According to an inscription on the wall of the well, it was built by Saidu Kala, a chobdar to Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan, in AH 1069 (CE 1658-59). The baoli, an elaborate structure of brick and lime kankar block, has one hundred one steps in three stages, separated by landings leading to the water level. At the end of the flight of steps is the circular well. The subsidiary staircases built within the thickness of the walls provide access to the landings. In view of its historical importance, it was declared protected as a monument of national importance vide notification no. 4891 dated 12-02-1923,” reads an inscription on the compound. Convoys and travellers passing by the baoli used to stop here so that the travellers as well their horses could quench their thirst and rest for a while before embarking on the onward journey.

Old-timers say with passage of time, the historical monument became a safe haven for unscrupulous elements and came to be known as ‘Jani Chor ki baoli’ after a thief who was believed to stay there and hid the stolen valuables inside the baoli. The baoli was damaged during the floods of 1995 as its wall collapsed. Following that, repair and maintenance work was taken up to protect and preserve the ancient structure.

As of now, the baoli is under the protection of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) and the area around it has been declared a regulated area.

However, the heritage monument has not got the attention it deserves and has not been developed as a site of tourist attraction despite its archaeological significance. Water in the baoli is covered with moss and the floor on one side of the monument has caved in. The plaster and bricks have also started coming out at several points.

Residents have constructed houses in the regulated area and haphazard constructions still continue here.

“There are no proper lighting arrangements at the baoli, nor is there any night watchman. Hence, it is often thronged by drug-addicts and anti-social elements during night,” says Rajpal Ahlawat, vice-president of the Meham Bar Association, whose house is located in front of the monument. Nevertheless, the greenery around the monument, has a variety of birds nestling and chirping happily and a serene ambience gives a blissful vibe to the place.

“Despite being in a dilapidated condition, Meham’s baoli is an evident creation of art and architecture and should be preserved for posterity,” observes literary journalist Rajkishan Nain. Cultural historian Ranbir Singh Phogat says that to preserve the structure, more technical information can be obtained from satellite images with the help of a ground-penetrating radar.

Meham SDM Mukund says the monument was under the control and protection of the ASI, but the local administration would aid in its conservation by ensuring cleanliness and maintenance of the area in which the baoli is located.

“We will also rope in the village panchayat, other local bodies and departments concerned to make a more concerted effort in this regard,” he states.

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