Embracing heritage: People of Pangi ring in winter with vibrant Phulyat fest

As the crisp mountain air of October wraps the mighty Pir Panjal ranges, the secluded yet spirited Pangi valley bursts into colour, rhythm and reverence with Phulyat (Phulyatra) — the valley’s festival.

Beginning today in Killar, the subdivisional headquarters of Pangi, the celebrations will continue for next three days, marking the end of the harvest season and the beginning of long, snowbound months ahead.

Once convened by the nine traditional Praja Mandals of Pangi — Killar, Karyas, Kuffa, Kawas, Hudan, Kiryuni, Sural, Dharwas and Luj — this festival was known as the ‘Nauve Phulyat’.

Today, only four mandals — Killar, Karyas, Kawas and Kuffa — carry forward the legacy, keeping alive an ancient tradition deeply woven into the cultural fabric of the Pangwal tribe.

The roots of Phulyat trace back to a time shrouded in myth and oral lore — when, as believed, the valley was under the spell of Rakshasas (demons). In a fierce battle, the local deities and their human followers triumphed, capturing a symbolic toy of the demons’ children, a wooden hen called ‘Shal Kukuri’. Since then, the festival has re-enacted this triumph of good over evil — the ‘Shal Kukuri’ is ceremonially displayed each year, symbolising the victory and superiority of humankind over the demonic forces.

Each morning, from nine to five, the valley thrums with music, dance and devotion. Thousands gather — men, women and children — as the deity’s procession makes its way through Killar. The ‘sain’, a traditional group dance, enlivens the evenings as men whirl to the rustic tunes of the flute and nagara, played by the Aryas, the community musicians.

On the penultimate day, the people converge at Chauki, where the entire community dances in unison — a spectacle of unity and joy that defines the spirit of Pangi.

The festival concludes with puja to Dehant Naag, the presiding village deity where prayers are offered for protection and prosperity, and blessings are sought for the long winter ahead — a farewell to the year’s last gathering before the snow seals the valley.

“Phulyat is more than a festival — it’s a reminder of our identity, our resilience, and our unity,” says Trilok Thakur, Chairman of Pangwal Ekta Manch, a forum of Pangi people.

The Pangwal community has always been self-reliant and culturally rich. Despite modern influences, this festival connects us to our roots. It’s time we reclaim our independent spirit and erase the stain of political dependency that began in 1967,” he added.

Tradition meets transition

Over time, Phulyat has seen changes. Once, the Sural Praja would climb through the snow-clad mountains behind Killar to join the ‘Nauve Phulyatnu’ celebrations. But in recent decades, participation of Sural and other distant prajas has waned. Likewise, traditional attire and ‘Pulle’ (grass sandals), once an inseparable part of the festival, are now rare sights.

Yet, amid these shifts, some rituals remain untouched. The Deity’s followers, dressed in full traditional regalia, still carry the instruments of the gods, lead the morning processions and perform the sacred dances that invoke divine presence. The display of the ‘Shal Kukuri’, the rhythm of the nagara, and the communal spirit — all stand as living links to an age-old faith, said Ajit Rana, a local.

As snow looms on the mountain tops, Phulyat serves as Pangi’s final jatra (fair) before winter cuts off the valley. It is not merely a festival — it’s a collective memory, a cultural anchor and a celebration of survival, he said.