Tradition under threat: Can Rajasthani artisans survive the rise of cheaper imitations?

Heritage and art festivals often leave one fascinated by traditional arts and make one wonder about their future. The recent Jaigarh Heritage Festival showcased traditional handicrafts, with dozens of home-grown vendors displaying ethnic prints and handmade articles. While DIY items like modern jewellery and hand-knit flowers seem cute, many wonder if such festivals are moving towards a more commercial approach.

The festival featured premium brands like Red Ochre and House of Shilpi Gupta, selling traditional handlooms, accessories, ceramics, and lifestyle pieces. Local women from Princess Diya Kumari Foundation (PDKF) also made their mark with traditional products. Visitors tried block painting on shirts and napkins, and men bought freshly made lac bangles as gifts.

Guddi, a woman artisan, proudly stated she’s a ‘master artisan’, having learned skills like stitching buttons and making necklaces over the past decade. “I used to earn Rs 30 per day working on sacred threads. The foundation offered Rs 60 per day. Now, I earn up to Rs 7,000-8,000 on a good day,” she said.

Rukhsana, making bangles with her husband, said, “We’ve been in this craft for generations.” Women highlighted that a women-centric workspace helped them overcome family apprehensions. PDKF, founded by Princess Diya Kumari of Jaipur’s royal family, empowers women through traditional handicrafts, preserving Rajasthan’s heritage.

However, Dhanau-based craftsmen expressed concerns. “It takes us a lot of time to build everything by hand. One of us makes the design, another cuts the fabric, one stitches while another gives the piece final touches. But people imitate our work through machines, producing cheaper products,” said Hothiram of AR Handicrafts. Artisans remain sceptical about long-term gains. Acknowledging the need to adopt digital tools, he said, “The government should provide us a platform to sell our products, help us build a website. Besides, children should be trained in traditional skills at school in order to preserve the craft.”

Janjha Ram, 66, showed a 40-year-old red dupatta with hand-embroidered design, saying, “My mother-in-law made this over 10 years. It’s worth lakhs, but who’ll pay?” He recalls that women used to make these pieces over several years and give them as gifts at weddings, as the group showcased another traditional attire, called ‘kanchla’. Janjha Ram lamented that kids aren’t interested in learning the craft, preferring phones instead.

To address this, Deepti Singh, PDKF manager, suggests blending traditional art with modern touches, like sweatshirts with hand embroidery. The festival featured a Karigar Spotlight session, highlighting regional embroidery and craftwork.

But even as the festival makes an attempt to preserve Rajasthan’s heritage, the question remains should we preserve heritage in its original glory or reinvent tradition to keep it relevant.