Introduction of skin and hair serums has revolutionised treatment strategies

Dr Vikas Sharma

Due to their deeper penetration into the skin without forming a barrier, usage of serums has revolutionised treatment strategies in dermatological and cosmetology disorders, as the active ingredients are able to target specific cell abnormalities more efficiently.

Skin-ageing is a complex biological process influenced by a combination of endogenous or intrinsic and exogenous or extrinsic factors. Because of the fact that skin health and beauty is considered one of the principal factors representing overall ‘well-being’ and the perception of ‘health’ in humans, several anti-ageing strategies have been developed during the last few years. Introduction of skin and hair serums are a part of the evolving skin care strategies.

Lighter & faster

Faster and lighter are the qualities many of us look for in a car, a laptop, and our bodies when we are running a marathon! They are also the prized attributes of skin and hair-care serums – light, fast-absorbing liquids used as an alternative or in addition to creams or lotions. Serums, as defined by the beauty industry, are concentrated skincare products designed to target a specific skin issue – be it ageing, acne or dullness. You apply them after cleansing and before moisturising, and the idea is that their tiny little molecules penetrate deep into your skin to deliver a strong hit of ‘active ingredients’. Ingredients depend on the problem being targeted like Vitamin C (to increase collagen), hyaluronic acid (for moisture) and niacinamide (for improving skin elasticity).

The biggest difference between a serum and a cream or lotion is what the formulation doesn’t include. Serums leave out occlusive, or airtight, moisturising ingredients such as petrolatum or mineral oil that keep water from evaporating. They also contain fewer lubricating and thickening agents, like nut or seed oils. Most serums are water-based, eliminating oils altogether.

Serums are made of very small molecules, so the skin absorbs them quickly and deeply. The thicker, heavier ingredients in creams tend to form a barrier on the skin. That’s great for locking moisture in. But it can also lock active ingredients out.

Serums are a great tool for targeting specific skincare concerns, like wrinkles, open pores, under eye bags and dark spots.The general rule is cleanse, tone, serum, moisturise! Serums should be applied twice daily. They are the first products that should be applied to the skin after cleansing and toning.

Easy absorption

Serums tend to be of lighter density than lotions. Skin absorbs serum easily and it’s more effective than a lotion.The hair serum is a form of liquid. Hair serums are made up of silicon-based contents, amino acids and ceramides. These hair serums are used for frizzy and curly hair.

The beauty of a serum is that most of the fluid is eliminated, so what you’re left with is a high concentration of active ingredients. Serums can contain the most potent dose of anti-ageing ingredients – antioxidants, peptides and skin brighteners, such as kojic acid.

( Dr Sharma is a Chandigarh-based skin specialist)