Education, the Khajuraho way

I RECENTLY had a visual treat at the Khajuraho temples. A guide decoded the mesmerising carvings on the outer wall of the Vishnu Temple. The bottom row signified the earth and the ones above it water, fire, space and air — documenting the five elements. The journey of humans is from nothing to nothing. When we start our journey as a speck in the womb, we start from nothing, and when we complete our journey, we become ash.

One of the sculptures on the outer wall signified how the ovum was fertilised in the womb. The symbolic representation of the sperm, the ovaries and fallopian tubes left me astounded. In an era where there were no X-rays, ultrasound etc., the internal anatomy of the reproductive system was carved and documented for posterity. Today, we talk of inclusive education, where teaching content is in pictures or models for visual learners and special children who learn by seeing. What could be a better way of explaining than etching it in stone!

Some sculptures illustrated the importance of yoga to maintain physical health, because unless one is physically fit, one cannot procreate or indulge in spiritual practices to attain Nirvana. The union of the male and female is the way given by God for the continuity of creation. What left me awestruck was the sublimity portrayed in the expressions of those indulging for the purpose of marital fulfilment, and in contrast, the animalistic expressions on the faces of those indulging for lust. Having gone through the process of procreation and having experienced life in all its facets, there is a realisation of the futility of it all and the understanding that all this leads to nothing! It is important that man experiences dharma, arth and kama before he attains moksha!

There were scenes of gurukul, games, cooking, marriage processions, etc. One sculpture showed a man’s body with the face of a demon devouring another man while being attacked in the back by a third man showing that if a man behaves like a demon, he ends up devouring others, and if he fights his demonic tendencies, he overcomes his bestiality and comes out victorious. The figure at the topmost level showed a man sitting in a lotus pose, experiencing bliss.

Inside the garbha greha was an idol of Lord Vishnu facing east. The angle of inclination of the windows in the north and south ensured that the idol was visible with the same amount of natural light, from sunrise to sunset. The extensive use of vastu shilpa sashtra was fantastic.

The temples are not centred on illustrating erotica. They are an authentic documentation of how advanced our society was in the 9-10th centuries. A UNESCO World Heritage Site worth seeing!