Taking on Himalayan challenge

MANY young lives were lost when an avalanche struck a group of 40 aspiring mountaineers from Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi, recently. The heart-rending tragedy brought to mind a mountaineering expedition I had led in 1989.

I had joined Lal Bahadur Shastri National Academy of Administration, Mussoorie, on deputation as Deputy Director in 1986. I instantly fell in love with the Himalayas, the loftiest and holiest of all mountains in the world. On a clear day, we could see the whole range of magnificent peaks from the academy. I also took a liking to trekking. A two-week trek in the Himalayas was an important component of the 15-week foundation course for new entrants. I embarked upon several high-altitude treks over the next two years.

One morning in February 1989, a thought crossed my mind about organising a mountaineering expedition for volunteer trainee officers. I broached the issue with the Director, who supported my idea. The next day, I addressed the 140-odd IAS trainees and explained to them the nitty-gritty of the month-long expedition to 21,500-ft-high Black Peak and the high level of physical and mental toughness required; the risks involved, for mountains could be treacherous, what with blizzards, snow blindness, the crevices (you slip into one and disappear) and the constant fear of capricious avalanches. ‘But look at the thrill, the high spirit of adventure that the young must epitomise! It’s a rare chance as we’d make all arrangements for skill training and equipment,’ I exhorted them. A silence fell. Then I declared, ‘I will be accompanying as group leader.’ The hall broke into a thunderous applause.

A few of them responded by raising their hands. The following day, 10 of them had given their names, including a woman trainee officer.

The expedition was flagged off on May 27. The climb was not without its anxious moments. One of the two ITBP mountaineers who accompanied us showed signs of snow blindness, while a trainee reported difficulty in breathing at night at an advance camp and was sent back to the base camp. During their return, a blizzard started raging out of nowhere. As ill luck would have it, the trainee slipped down the mountain slope and we heard screams, but could do nothing except pray. He could be rescued only when the blizzard waned. He had a gash on his neck caused by his ice axe as he rolled down. Thankfully, the wound was dealt with at the base camp and the need for emergency evacuation didn’t arise. But it upset our climbing plans as he couldn’t be left alone.

Yet, the others climbed till the last advance camp and five trainees, exhibiting grit and pluck, scaled the peak. It was an out-of-the-world experience in courage, thrill and adventure!