Of Dhauladhars, Dharamshala and fizzy Vimto

My grandparents used to live in Himachal. As children, we looked forward to the summer holidays when we would be able to visit them in Dharamsala (as it was then spelled), then a quiet and gentle town, surrounded by the Dhauladhars.

The first thing my grandfather would show us were the mountain peaks which would be covered in snow, and he would delight in our squeals of wonder at having seen snow in June! That we would spend many weeks in a cool place while our friends back home in the plains would be in the middle of a heat wave, added to our enjoyment.

My grandparents’ house was in Upper Dharamshala, and had a clear view of the Kangra Valley below. Our greatest adventure was to walk down to the stream, or khadd, flowing nearby and take dips in the ice-cold water.

Above the house a walking track led McLeodganj. Sometimes, when we used the road to visit nearby picnic spots like Bhagsu Nag or Indru Nag, we would encounter teams of engineers and workers working on hillsides and tarmacs. With their hard hats and strange-looking equipment, they were indeed a fascinating sight.

Sometimes when it rained, my grandmother would give strict instructions — to not go near streams even on a clear day since heavy rains upstream may cause a swell in the waters, always wear a sweater as it may turn cold suddenly. Many places like the nearby lakes or temples were not to be visited once the rainy season started.

Dharamshala was delight even when the monsoon hit it. We would run down to the local market in Kotwali Bazaar to have a local fizzy drink called Vimto by our elders, whose usual dour demeanour would be softened by the lushness and relaxation brought about rain hitting tiles of slate.

As I read about the destruction in the mountains, I’m reminded of the care and near reverence with which the social and administrative culture of those times treated human activities in the Himalayas. And I wonder, whether in a hurry to move forward, we have destroyed the very path which would take us there.

Charu Bali, Gurgaon