Food Talk by Pushpesh Pant: Sweet and sour, the heady stew

Stew is the quintessential comfort food, and its recipes display an enticing variety. There is the celebrated Irish stew that, it is believed, inspired and spawned desi improvisations on the theme like ishtoo in Delhi, Bhopal and Rampur — each with a distinct identity, not to forget the stew in Kerala that is paired with the appam. In Lucknow, where chicken is preferred, the bird replaces the goat. In a slow cooked-to-perfection stew, the lamb or mutton that has soaked in all flavours falls off the bone at the touch of the fork or spoon.

Recently, the Australian High Commission in Delhi organised an event to showcase the ‘wonderful tastes’ of their amazing country. Australia is truly a land of plenty — lamb and other meats, seafood, fruit and vegetables, assorted nuts. Immigrants from all over the world have brought with them recipes and cooking techniques that have created mouth-watering confluences.

Gifted Indian chef Saby Gorai was in his element, cajoling the best out of the imported bounty. What took our hearts away was the lamb stew in mulled red wine.

There is no cause to despair if you eschew alcohol, or are loath to spill wine in the pot instead of the glass. The Moroccan version that replaces wine with vinegar and apple juice, chopped figs and dried apricots is no less delightful.

The recipe we share with our readers can be tweaked as per the availability of ingredients and your fondness for particular flavours. For us, this blend of sweet and sour tastes just perfect. It recalls jardalu gosht from the Parsi repertoire and the fruity notes provide the perfect foil for succulent meat. We are now working on a variation to satisfy the craving of our vegetarian friends for this heady stew.

Till then, bon appetit!

Moroccan Lamb Stew

Ingredients

Mutton (boneless bite-sized chunks, culled from shoulder or leg) 500 g

Baby potatoes (parboiled, skin retained) 4

Carrot (medium) 1

Parsnip/turnip (medium) 1

Ripe tomatoes (blanched, skin removed and pureed) 150 g

Onion (small, peeled, chopped fine) 1

Garlic cloves 6

Ginger 1x2 inch piece

Malt vinegar 1/2 cup

Apple juice 1 cup

Star anise 1 flower

Cinnamon stick 1x1 inch

Bay leaf (medium) 1

Brown cardamom 1

Cloves 3-4

Black peppercorns 6-8

Flour (all-purpose) 1/2 cup

Salt To taste

Oil (preferably olive oil) 1/2 cup

Okra/bhindi (for garnish) 100 g

Yam/banana chips (for garnish) 4-6

How to make

Preheat oven to 160ºC. Wash and pat dry the mutton. Roll in seasoned flour to coat evenly in a flat tray. Wash and scrape the carrot and cut into 1/2-inch discs. Scrape the parsnip.

Heat oil in a heavy skillet. Put in the bay leaf and other whole spices. Stir-fry for a minute till they change colour slightly and begin to release aroma. Add the onions and fry till translucent. Add all the vegetables and continue stir-frying for about 3 minutes on medium flame, then remove these with a slotted spoon and keep aside.

Put the meat into the same skillet, and raise the flame to high to sear and seal the chunks of meat. This will ensure that the juices are sealed and the meat remains succulent.

Stir in the tomato puree. Sprinkle salt. Reduce the flame to medium low. Pour the vinegar, along with apple juice, and simmer on low

flame for about 10 minutes. Lightly fry the garlic cloves and ginger in a ladle and add to the stew.

Empty the contents of the skillet into an oven-proof dish, along with the cooked veggies. Bake in the preheated oven for 30 minutes. Let

it rest on the rack for 15 minutes.

Garnish with fried crisp bhindi and banana chips. Serve hot with rice or bread of choice.