Mild, enticing treat from Kashmir

There are very few dishes that can rival shab deg for its resplendence as a seasonal celebratory dish. The recipe originated in Kashmir and came to Shahjahanabad when the new Mughal capital was commissioned by the Emperor, who gave the new city his name. It became immensely popular with the elite as it matched the beauty and elegance of magnificent buildings that were built. It not only struck root here but also travelled with culinary masters to Rampur and Awadh. The Kayastha kitchen repertoire counts it among its rare gems. Old-timers — Hindu and Muslim gourmets — nostalgically talk of the delicacy that has, for all practical purposes, become extinct. Shab deg was never part of everyday meal, even in aristocratic households.

It was relished as a rare treat at festive feasts, cooked by specialist bawarchis employed for this purpose. The name provides a clue to its uniqueness. Shab translates as night and deg is the vessel in which the meat and vegetables are slow-cooked overnight on charcoal fire. No one should confuse it with nihari, another meaty dish that is slow-cooked overnight. That one is listed as lashkari khana — nourishing and flavourful, no doubt, but not something considered fit enough to be displayed on the princely spread.

Shab deg, on the other hand, is a subtle multi-sensory delight. It has colourful vegetables like carrots and turnips — fried, rich, brown — floating in golden gravy, along with chiselled boti of meat, jostling with kofta, matching the appearance of shaljam (turnip). The artistry of the cook was traditionally-tested by his success, or otherwise, by confusing the guest between turnips and meatballs!

Spicing plays with aromatic ingredients — mild but enticing. Fennel, dried ginger, green cardamoms, cinnamon and Kashmiri red chillies create magic when cloves, peppercorns, a few blades of mace and little grated nutmeg are added. All these whole spices are believed to have a hot taseer — an inherent property to combat chill. When the health-conscious diners started eschewing red meat, chicken was substituted. This substantially reduced cooking time. Then, there were vegetarians who didn’t like being left out.

To be honest, shab deg is no less alluring even without the kofta. If you concentrate on the gravy, you can’t go wrong with either recipe. It tastes absolutely out of this world — equally satisfying with roti, parantha or steamed rice. You may add an odd potato but shaljam is must. Our advice is to forget the pressure cooker and stay with the thick-bottomed pan with a tight-fitting lid!

Shab deg

Ingredients

• Mutton/chicken/paneer 500 gm
• Turnips (small) 4
•  Carrots (medium, plump) 2
•  Potato (large) 1
•  Onion (large) 1
•  Ginger-garlic paste 1-1/2 tsp
•  Curd 1 cup
•  Green chillies (ground to paste) 3-4
•  Red chilli powder 1 tsp
•  Turmeric powder 1/4 tsp
•  Cumin powder 1/2 tsp
•  Coriander powder 1 tsp
•  Fennel seeds powder 1-1/2 tsp
•  Dried ginger powder 1 tsp
•  Kashmiri red chilli powder 1 tsp
•  Bay leaf 1
•  Cinnamon stick 1x1 inch piece
•  Cloves 3-4
•  Green cardamoms 3
•  Brown cardamoms 2
•  Black peppercorns 1/2 tsp
•  Mace blades 4-6
•  Nutmeg (grated) 1/8
•  Salt To taste
•  Oil 1/2 cup

Method

• Cut the meat/paneer into bite-sized pieces. Prepare a marinade mixing half the curd with salt, red chillies, ground green chillies and apply it well to the meat/chicken or paneer. Pare the turnips and carrots. Peel and quarter the potato. Cut carrots in three pieces. Peel and finely slice the onions.
• Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and fry the turnips and potatoes till golden brown. Remove and reserve for later use after piercing with a fork. Add a little oil in the pan, glaze the carrots and remove. Place on kitchen towels.
• Place the pan on the stove and add whole spices. Stir-fry for about 45 seconds. Add the onions. Stir-fry till onions are golden but not dark brown. Add meat/chicken and fry till well browned. It’ll take about 6-7 minutes.
• If using paneer, stir-fry for three minutes. Dissolve all powdered spices, along with salt in 1/2 cup of water and stir in the pot. Add turnips, carrots and potatoes. Stir regularly, till fat separates. Add ginger-garlic paste and cook for two minutes.Whisk the curd, mix with 1/2 cup of water and pour into the pot in a steady stream, stirring constantly. Raise the flame and cook till the curd is blended well. Wait till the fat separates. Add 1-1/2 cup of boiling water, cover with a tight lid, reduce flame to low and cook for 10-15 minutes. Check if the ‘stew’ is done and the gravy has desired consistency. Serve hot.