Sips of delight: Cha addas of Kolkata

Tea in India is more than just a beverage; it’s a cherished tradition. Every city is dotted with small shacks or rehris, where tea is brewed around the clock. However, the Bengali passion for street chai is not merely a routine tea stop, it’s a lifelong love affair.

Our visit to Kolkata last winter was a delightful journey through the vintage city’s architectural and cultural wonders and its gastronomical treasures dotted with countless cups of tea.

We were introduced to Kolkata cha, when, on our ride from the airport to our Airbnb, we asked the cab driver to stop for tea. “Oho didi!” he exclaimed dramatically, “we just passed the best cha adda. But don’t worry, haan, I’ll take you to a good one.”

The driver, now a man with a mission, expertly weaved through the chaotic traffic, honking with gusto, yelling at errant traffic and making terrifyingly sharp turns. A kilometre down the road, he screeched to a halt and pointed to a small cubby hole. The heavenly aroma of freshly brewed tea glided through the air.

I took my first sip of Kolkata's beloved Bharer cha, served in rustic kulhads. It played on my taste buds like a symphony, and I fell irrevocably in love with the city’s cha. In a flash it was revealed why Kolkata is the uncrowned king of street chais.

Presided over by the tea vendor, an alchemist dedicated to perfection, the cha-making process is a theatrical performance. Often made over a wood fire, it begins with the flames being stoked and fanned, releasing a warm, smoky aroma into the air. Spices are crushed, their fragrant oils blending with the sweetness of sugar. Milk is poured from great heights, creating a white cascade. When deemed ready, the vendor, with a virtuoso’s flair, pours the frothy potion into wide-mouthed bhars (as kulhads are known there), eagerly awaited by patient tea lovers.

Every few meters on the streets of Kolkata have a cha-er dokan, a cosy tea stall inviting you to pause and savour a cup. These cha addas often offer tasty nibbles to complement your tea. You can choose from a variety of biskoots, slices of fruit cake, savoury treats, and singara (samosa). Open from dawn to late night, cha addas offer camaraderie and vibrant conversations. People, even strangers, gather to chat and exchange views, news, political gossip, and have lively discussions about cultural matters, which might extend to a second cup.

Kolkata’s tea culture traces back to the colonial era, when the British East India Company set up its headquarters in the city and introduced the tradition of afternoon tea. Bengali society embraced this tradition wholeheartedly.

Over the years, the city has developed a deep connection with this fragrant brew, seamlessly integrating it into daily life. The portions served are not very large — just enough to keep you wanting for a bit more. That’s what makes it more alluring and ekadama fatafati (explosively good).