Bada Bhangal, a journey through tradition & time

At first sight, the village of Bada Bhangal seems like a mirage, appearing out of the wilderness like one of those ancient mythical cities. Surrounded by jagged peaks and steep gorges, its humble abodes spun from stone and timber cling to the rugged slopes as the mighty Ravi river thunders down below. One is filled with a sense of amazement looking at the settlement from afar, standing in defiance of the elements, a tribute to human endurance.

Situated deep in the heart of the Dhauladhar mountain ranges, the village of Bada Bhangal lies at an altitude of around 2,500 metres above sea level, in an isolated valley between Kangra, Kullu and Chamba valleys. Ravi, one of the five rivers that give the state of Punjab its name, originates in these parts. Even today, it can be accessed only by foot across high mountain passes.

How to reach and proceed

• Bada Bhangal is one of the remotest villages in the Western Himalaya, accessible only by foot.
• Start trekking from the small settlement of Billing in Kangra region. Cross the Thamsar Pass at around 4,700m to descend into Bada Bhangal.
• One can either come back via the same route or continue further to cross Kalihani Pass at around 4,800m to descend into the Kullu valley and reach Manali.
• Total trekking duration is around 8 to 12 days depending upon the route and fitness levels.
• Taxis and luxury buses are available to and from Bir (10 km from Billing) and Manali.

Last bastion of Himalayan pastoralism

Traditionally inhabited by migratory agro-pastoral communities, most notably the Gaddi tribe, the villagers spend the summer months grazing their livestock in the high-altitude pastures and retreat to lower altitudes, historically the Chota Bhangal region, during the winters to escape the harsh weather. This practice, known as transhumance, has been a defining characteristic of life in the region for generations, allowing people to cultivate a unique cultural identity rooted in resilience and self-reliance. It would not be amiss to say that Bada Bhangal stands as one of the last strongholds of Himalayan pastoralism, a traditional way of life in the mountains for centuries.

While pastoral communities are scattered in many parts of the Western Himalaya, very few places today would match the scale at which it is still practised here.

For centuries, shepherds have lived in harmony with nature, herding livestock across the alpine meadows and following age-old migration patterns dictated by the seasons. Their knowledge of the land is unparalleled, and every trail, water source and meadow has a story, reflecting their deep-rooted respect for the environment as a provider of sustenance. Traditional practices, such as making natural-fibre clothing or crafting simple yet effective tools from local materials, are a testament to their ingenuity.

Yet, this way of living is increasingly fragile. A changing socio-economic landscape gravitating towards modern infrastructure and urban settlements, coupled with climate change, make this way of life unappealing to the younger generation. Their outmigration threatens not only the demographic balance of the region, but also the preservation of its intangible cultural heritage.

Exploring the region

Owing to its isolation, extreme terrain and weather, reaching the village requires a high level of physical fitness and experience in traversing high altitudes. Although the village has a helipad, it is only used for administrative purposes like elections, or during emergencies, making trekking the only option. For those willing to take up the challenge though, the rewards are every bit worth the effort: breathtaking vistas of untouched Himalayan landscapes, encounters with rare flora and fauna, and an opportunity to experience a centuries-old way of life.

Hikers navigate through dense forests, cross gushing mountain streams, and traverse glaciers and high mountain passes that offer panoramic views of the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges. In between, one gets to soak in the traditional pastoral lifestyle and experience the hospitality and warmth of the locals. It is not uncommon while walking to be invited to a shepherd encampment and be treated with fresh milk and curd: enchanted by the landscapes and endeared by its people.

Bada Bhangal is more than just a remote village, it is a living heritage, one that has withstood the test of time but now stands at a crossroads. For those who venture into this hinterland, the experience goes beyond the natural beauty; it’s a pilgrimage to a vanishing world, one that compels us to reflect on our own relationship with nature and the traditions of our ancestors.

— The writer is an outdoor enthusiast and climate expert