Fasting, feasting with lotus stem

Lotus is the national flower of India, celebrated in legend and lore. It is the stuff of metaphysical speculation and is depicted in sculptures and paintings. The stem holds the hundred-petalled blossom aloft, but serves the master unseen underwater. We think this is a pity as the lotus stem — mrinal in Sanskrit, kamal kakdi in Hindustani, bhain in Punjabi — has much to offer to the discerning gourmet. Only in the valley of Kashmir, the stem, locally known as nadru, is considered a delicacy and given the pride of place in the Kashmiri wazwaan. It is served as yakhni, a curd-based light gravy, redolent with green cardamoms and a hint of fennel. It is also paired with greens, lentils and vegetables of choice. Punjabis and Sindhis cook it with robust spices. Once we were treated to nadru kebab, crafted lovingly without binders. A novelty, it left us yearning for the ‘real’ shami.

The vegetarian palate, jaded with jackfruit, yam, unripe banana, rajma, palak paneer, has put pressure on chefs to create something new. This has brought kamal kakdi into sharp focus and it is experiencing a welcome revival. Recently, we were delighted to taste kamal kakdi ke kofte and kamal kakdi ke kebab at Singh Sahib, a restaurant at the Eros in the Capital, which prides itself in innovation and improvisation while remaining true to the desi foundations of food. Chef Diwas Wadhera, born and brought up in Chandni Chowk, doesn’t believe in fusion for confusion’s sake.

We have great pleasure in sharing the slightly modified recipes with our readers. The satvik kebabs and the saffron-tinted gravy sans onion and garlic are just what is gastronomically correct for the fasting and vegetarian feasting season.

Kamal kakdi ke kebab

Ingredients

Lotus stems 300 gm

Chana dal (soaked overnight) 75 gm

Cumin powder 1/2 tsp

Black peppercorn powder 1/2 tsp

Red chilli powder 1/2 tsp

Clove powder 1/4 tsp

Cinnamon powder 1/4 tsp

Ginger paste 1 tbsp

Green chilli (chopped) 1 tbsp

Fresh mint leaves (chopped) 1 tbsp

Lime juice 1 tbsp

Salt To taste

Oil To deep fry

Method

Pare the lotus stems with a peeler. Cut into diagonal slices and wash well at least twice to remove the grit. Grate or grind and put in a pressure cooker, along with the dal and a cup of water. Cook till 4-5 whistles. When cool, press to squeeze out excess water and place in a bowl with other ingredients. Knead to blend well. Divide into equal portions and shape into patties like shami kebab. Heat oil and deep fry in batches. When evenly brown, remove with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen towel. If you have the patience, you may follow the Awadhi way and delicately pan-grill the kamal ke shami on a non-stick pan, pressing and turning gently with a spatula!

Kamal kakdi ke kofte

Ingredients

Lotus stem 500 gm

Potatoes (parboil & peel) 150 gm

Figs 50 gm

Khoya 50 gm

Cumin powder 1/2 tsp

Red chilli powder 1/2 tsp

Ginger paste 1 tsp

Corn or rice flour/besan 1 tbsp

Salt To taste

For the gravy

Curd 200 ml

Turmeric powder 1/2 tsp

Yellow chilli powder 1/2 tsp

Saffron A few strands

Dried ginger powder 1/2 tsp

Green cardamom 2-4

Cloves 2

Fennel powder 1 tsp

Coriander powder 2 tsp

Cumin powder 1 tsp

Almonds (peeled) 1/4 cup

Cashew nuts 10-12

Salt To taste

Ghee/oil To deep fry

Method

Wash and pare the lotus stems with a peeler. Cut into diagonal slices. Wash very well, at least twice, to remove grit. Then, grate or grind and put in a pressure cooker with a cup of water and cook till 4-5 whistles. Remove from flame and place in a bowl full of water. Grate the potatoes and place in the same bowl. Squeeze all water and mix the two vegetables well. If silky smooth kofta is preferred, put in a blender with ginger paste and mince in short bursts to obtain a soft dough. Grate the khoya and sprinkle over the kofta mixture, along with powdered spices and a little salt. Dice figs finely and add to the kofta mixture. Add rice flour/corn flour or besan. Knead well, divide into equal portions and shape into round balls to form kofta. Heat ghee/oil in a large thick-bottomed pan and fry the balls in batches on medium high flame. When evenly golden brown, remove with a slotted spoon and place on kitchen towels to remove excess fat. Keep aside. Grind the almonds and cashew nuts to a paste. Prepare the gravy by heating ghee/oil in a thick-bottomed pan and adding to it the hing and whole spices. Stir fry for 30 seconds and add the almond-cashew nuts paste. Stir fry briskly for a minute. Add the curd, stirring continuously to avoid curdling. Then put in the powdered spices. Stir fry for another minute. When the oil separates, add 1 cup of water. When it comes to boil, gently lower the kofta in it. Stir the saffron strands soaked in milk/rose water or kewra jal. Let it simmer for 3-4 minutes and serve with rice or roti/parantha.