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Extant landmarks, memories fading as modernity grows at Chownk Passiyan

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Neeraj Bagga

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Tribune News Service

Amritsar, September 2

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Chownk Passiyan, considered among the earliest localities established after the Sikh master Guru Ramdas founded the city, has undergone tremendous changes owing to commercialisaton and a desire to live in modern houses.

The surroundings have 21 labyrinthine streets. Many of them drawing names from different professions. First things first, the famous abode of the fourth Guru and his family is now Guru Ke Mahal, a gurdwara reflecting contemporary modern architecture. What could have been a connect with the past; Guru Arjan Dev and Guru Hargobind had tied the knot at this respective place, Guru Teg Bahadur and Baba Atal Rai took birth here, dons a new look on the narrow winding lane. Similarly, a present-day temple also exists here next to a decaying gurdwara and another has been raised over an old well in Gali Acharjan Wali.

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A shop with glass facade in Amritsar’s Gali Acharjan. Sunil Kumar

Standing next to the gold and silver ornament market, Guru Bazaar and textile hub Shastri market, its houses could not resist the charm of high real estate value being offered. Tangible history is gradually petering out as shopkeepers continue to replace the bygone architectures with latest glass facades.

The street is less than 5ft wide and the market price is nearly Rs50,000 per square yard, he says, before adding, “most of the houses have been turned in godowns with shops underneath. Besides, those who could not afford to move out replaced the old structures with new ones. —Rakesh Kapoor, A trader

Gali Acharjan wali, where once stood houses of Brahmins, who earned their living from the cremation of dead, has been replaced by shops dealing in shawls.

Rakesh Kapoor, a trader, said only one family was still involved in the profession and all others are either on their way out or have already done away with. Most of the houses in the street were now occupied by traders.

No youth wants to live here as everybody owns a vehicle these days. Parking in such streets is a big headache and the government cannot provide trouble-free routes as some of the lanes are extremely narrow. —Puran Chand, A city resident

Puran Chand, an aged resident, recounted that a large number of people earlier would sit by these streets and share their day’s experiences with each other. “After the arrival of satellite TV channels that age old practice has also gone. Now, oldies and out of work persons sit to pass their time,” he adds.

“These were places where there was space to provide comfort, safety from traffic and security form snatchers yet youth do not prefer it,” Chand rues.

Turbulent past times behind cramped lanes

Experts state that the reason of extremely narrowness of the street lies in the turbulent medieval history of the country as the invaders from the North-West borders of the country had frequently marauded to this part. As a result, the residents had preferred to live in the safety of extremely narrow lanes which allowed people to enter in the queue only. Each narrow lane has a relatively open space, which are called surprising open space as they suddenly appear. These open spaces used to serve a significant social purpose like placing deads and other family or such social functions.

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