Heritage on verge of fading into oblivion

“It is exactly like interior Lahore, with the only difference being the boards written in Gurmukhi instead of Urdu,” commented Saima Iram, Professor of Urdu Language and Literature at GC University, Lahore, while roaming the streets of the walled city of Amritsar nearly eight years ago.

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But if she were to visit Amritsar now or a few years later, Saima would find much of the old heritage lost. The reason? Vast changes in the city’s architecture, as old buildings are being demolished to make way for swanky hotels for modern-day tourists.

In comparison, the neighbouring country has successfully preserved the heritage of Lahore and transformed it into a tourist attraction.

More than 800 buildings have been demolished in the walled city over the past 10 years, claimed Advocate Sarbjit Singh Verka, who filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Punjab and Haryana High Court regarding the “illegal” construction of high-end hotels around the Golden Temple. The hotel business is flourishing in Amritsar, especially in the walled city, due to the increasing number of tourists. Consequently, heritage buildings are being razed one after another to make space for new hotels.

Only a few heritage buildings have managed to withstand the test of time and modernity. Even those that are still standing are in a poor condition.

Gurinder Singh Johal, who organises heritage walks in the walled city, raised the alarm on his social media account, posting a picture of a 200-year-old building in Katra Ahluwalia Bazaar. The building no longer exists and the construction of a commercial complex is underway in its place. “I had shown that building to so many tourists, but couldn’t do anything to save it. Heritage buildings are being replaced with new hotels,” he lamented.

Vipul Nevtia, who belongs to the sixth generation of Marwari traders established in Katra Ahluwalia, shared, “My grandparents told me that these buildings were constructed by masons from Baghdad and craftsmen from Kashmir. That is why the architecture of old buildings in Katra Ahluwalia is unique.”

The old Ambarsarias loved chajjas (balconies) carved out of wood with intricate floral designs. Despite numerous variations and European influences, chajjas remained a common feature outside the residences of prominent families. Even in the early 20th century, when European architectural styles gained popularity, the love for chajjas did not fade.

Former Head of Guru Ram Das School of Planning at GNDU, Balwinder Singh, who has a PhD in heritage studies focused on the walled city of Amritsar, said, “There is still rich heritage left in the walled city. If you walk from Jalebi Chowk to Ghanta Ghar, you will see spectacular old heritage buildings still standing, though without any maintenance or care. Some buildings have survived towards Hindu College as well. There was one building I will always remember. It had big paintings of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. That building is also gone now.”

Experts have been advocating the listing of heritage buildings in the walled city to implement preservation projects. “The zigzag street patterns and their nomenclature are still largely intact, but the architecture is changing swiftly. What the government needs to do is freeze the change of land use within the walled city of Amritsar. The heritage buildings should be listed, and a separate authority should be constituted to preserve them. The government should also provide alternatives to the owners instead of allowing demolition or reconstruction. Otherwise, slowly, all heritage buildings will be replaced by hotels,” said Balwinder Singh.

Michael Rahul, an activist working for heritage preservation, remarked, “Pakistan is a failed state, yet they have a Walled City Authority in Lahore. The heritage buildings inside the old city of Amritsar can be converted into profitable tourist spots like cafés and restaurants, without demolishing them.”

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