Kulcha crown jewel of street food in Amritsar

By now, it is well known that the Department of Food Processing, Punjab, is exploring the possibility of securing a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Amritsari Kulcha’, an iconic dish that traditionally originated in Amritsar and found global fame. While this further elevates the status of the humble, yet rich and favourful kulcha in global culinary terms, it also adds uniqueness to the king of street food in Punjab.

Amritsari kulcha stands out among the best street food in the world for its preparation that remains almost unchanged even after so many years, which includes the use of tandoors (clay ovens), traditional stuffing styles, and dough fermentation methods that go back generations. Often to cook a kulcha, a dhaba has a separate tandoor as it requires a specific temperature and technique. Known to be inspired by the original Peshawari Khameeri roti (Sourdough flatbread), the Amritsari kulcha has several variants today.

But this is not the only gem in the long list of culinary delights that Amritsar has to offer. There are other traditional breads or kulchas specific to the holy city, though relatively lesser known, but equally flavourful. A city where several historical streams met at different points of time, Amritsar’s food culture is largely a gift of migration along the “Silk Route” as it was a major commerce and trade capital in this part of the world. Several of these recipes or food influences acquired a unique identity once they met the experience hands of dhaba owners.

Pathi kulcha is a close regional variation of Amritsari kulcha. It is another street food exclusive to Amritsar. Pathi kulcha originated sometimes in the 1920s, according to varied accounts. It is a popular, indulgent breakfast item in the region, often served with butter, chole (chickpea curry), curd or chutneys. Baked in traditional clay ovens, the simple Pathi kulcha, also a leavened flatbread, is made by using only flour and water and differs from Amritsari kulcha, which is usually made by adding baking soda or curd to the dough, stuffed with herbed mashed potatoes and prepared in a tandoor until crisp on the outside. As one of the oldest and most versatile dishes, Pathi kulcha acquired another name, ‘smelly kulcha’, for a distinct pungent smell due to the use of black gram dal as leavening agent. Owing to the detailed nomenclature that Amritsar’s food connoisseurs seem to have indulged in over the years, when served with chhole (chickpea curry) poured over it, it is called ‘bheejja kulcha (wet bread).

Another street food gem is the Satpura or seven layered fried bread that also borders close to a puff pastry. A flaky, deep-fried treat that most people flock to grab as soon as they are taken out of the hot oil, it is mostly found at small tuck shops in dhabas or at food stalls inside the walled city. As the name suggests, Satpura is made from flour, sometimes with a soft potato mash stuffed painstakingly between the delicate thin layers and fried deep. Exclusive to Amritsar streets, Satpura is airy and flavourful, and is enjoyed as a snack. Originally believed to be sourced from recipes that migrants along the Silk Route brought along with them to Amritsar, its exclusivity comes from its intricate preparation, a proof of Amritsaris love for detail in their food.

Patli Puri or thinner, crispier version of a traditional poori (fried bread) is another example of adding uniqueness to a conventional version of food. A traditional Amritsari poori is round, crispy and heavy, somewhere in between a bhatura and a poori. Patli Poori is a toned down version, though extremely popular among the walled city residents, who just cannot do without it.

So, the next time you plan a visit to Amritsar, remember it is not just one of the best food cities in the world, but also the bread capital of Punjab.