Lahore Express

Kuldip Dhiman

Lahore to Chandigarh, is a long nostalgic journey that was initiated by Shri Mangu Ram before the forties. Seventy-odd years on, his grandson Panna Lal and great grandson are keeping the legacy of Lahori food alive in Chandigarh.

“After the terrible division of the country, my father, Shri Munshi Ram, was given a place to start a dhaba in Batala. Later, we moved to Dasuya, and finally to Chandigarh in 1960.”

The uprooted family installed a tandoor under a mango tree behind Gurdwara Sahib in Sector 22, selling rotis at one paisa each! Then they got space in rehri market of Sector 21 near the old Labour Chowk. After the chowk was demolished, they shifted to the Sector 20-D rehri market. There they started Pahlwan Dhaba, which became known for non-vegetarian food and kharore. 

“I learnt the tricks of running a dhaba form my father, and now I have 35 years’ experience in this field. I shifted to Sector 44-D five years ago.” That is a long haul from Lahore. Now, aided by his son Arun Kumar and trusted associate Varinder, the dhaba is gaining popularity by the day.

“Ours is a fully vegetarian dhaba, and our USP is that all our vegetable dishes have a distinct taste because we make separate gravies for each of them. We use different masalas for each one of them. I personally supervise the preparations,” says Panna Lal. 

One reason for the popularity of Lahori Dhaba is that they make dishes that are not generally served at dhabas and restaurants. “After all, how many restaurants and dhabas in the Tricity serve Bharvan Karela, Bharvin Bhindi, Katahal, Arabi Masala,” asks Varinder. “We have very good cooks and the staff is trained to handle these dishes.”

Talking about the specialities at Lahori Dhaba, Pannal Lal, says, “One of our most popular items is Amritsari Chhole Kulche which can be had at a reasonable rate of Rs 100. It is served between 9 am and 4 pm daily. The cook who makes them is also from Amritsar. He goes to Amritsar every week to get special masalas from there. Those masalas are unique because certain families have been making them from generations. At Amritsar, they have got special blessings, and the water there is very pure and light.” The other popular dishes are Shahi Paneer, Kadi Pakora, and Dal Makhani. “People come here to buy one vegetable dish but end up having four packed,” claims a proud Panna Lal.

Food for a small family can cost Rs 400 approximately, depending upon the dishes ordered.

Try it out

• Aloo Parantha
• Gobhi Parantha
• Paneer Parantha  
• Thali Rs 130
• Amritsari Chhole Kulche
• Kheer packed box Rs 100
• Makki ki Roti and Sarson ka Saag Rs 120