Harissa remains all-time favourite to beat the chill

Bismah Malik

Tribune News Service

Srinagar, January 1

As the Valley reels under bone-chilling cold, harissa, the minced mutton delicacy which Kashmir imported from Central Asia during the Mughal era, is the most relished one.

While harissa is prepared in households and also sold at a few bakery shops from the last few years, the lovers of this delicacy say it is relished the most only when eaten at the traditional joints.

“Nowadays, harissa is sold by some bakeries throughout the day and also made at homes. But if one has to get the real taste, it should be eaten at places like Aali Kadal,” said Meraj-ud-din, a local.

While Gow Kadal and Sarai Bala areas are also famous for the dish, the most popular joint of the city continues to be the one at Aali Kadal.

Irfan Malik, a harissa lover, says no other joint can beat the flavour at Aali Kadal when it comes to preparing this winter delicacy.

“For a long long time now, the Aali Kadal joint has been preparing the best harissa. At this place, one cannot find this delicacy after 8.00 am, unlike other places where it is available till late,” he said.

“And if you want to pack harissa at Aali Kadal, you have to book it one day in advance, by keeping a utensil at the joint,” Irfan added.

While harissa is being relished in Kashmir for centuries now, its origin and exact date of entry to the Valley continues to remain unknown.

The old Srinagar city, also known as Shahr-e- Khaas, is the hub of harissa-making shops as people turn up in large numbers during the wee hours to gorge on the mutton delicacy.

However, doctors advise caution in excessive eating of this all-time favorite delicacy.

“Harissa has muscle and tissue building protein. It should be consumed in the proportion of one gram per kg of body weight. Over eating it can lead to health complications and it overloads the body system,” said Dr Mushtaq, a Srinagar-based physician.