A Dastaan of science & cooking

Nikita Sharma

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Relish Indian food in European style at Dastaan, a restaurant that promises to offer progressive Indian cuisine by introducing science to the art of cooking. The culinary creation of hotelier Dilsher Sukhija and chef Manav Suri, Dastaan, was inaugurated in Sector 7, Chandigarh, on Wednesday. It scripts a new story, taking a futuristic flight across the world from its home base — the traditional Indian rasoi.

At the threshold is an impressive “green wall” of herbs such as wheatgrass, tamarind and mint that are used in the food. The ambience is welcoming with soft Indian fusion music playing in the background. A retractable roof will open up to those wanting to dine under the star.  Dilsher says they’ve introduced molecular gastronomy — the science of cooking food — to Chandigarh. 

Award winning Chef Manav Suri mixes ancient cooking methods with modern techniques in keeping with his philosophy of taking Indian food to a global platform. He’s dug out some secrets from his grandmother’s kitchen, blended in European ingredients and cookery styles and infused them with molecular gastronomy. To counter liquor ban on the Madhya Marg eateries, mocktails have been experimented with. Don’t be surprised if your coconut-based mocktail has smoke billowing out of it. Suri loves to add “more drama” to the art of presentation.

Considering the fact that people do look at the right side of the menu, Dilsher says: “It won’t weigh heavy on your pocket.”

You can savour sevpuri cornettes, a surf-and-turf seekh for starters and dig into mouthfuls of masala polenta idli caponata sandwich with red pepper moilee or the pulled duck khurchan as your main course.

The lauki ki phirni might sound plain, but garnished by mango caviar, elaichi pearls and gold warq, it acquires an epicurean glow. 

With their IHM-Aurangabad training, topped with experience at the Taj, the award-winning duo are confident of spinning out a narrative in which the quintessential Indian’s nostalgic memories of food are interwoven with adventurous forays into the cuisines of other lands.

Molecular gastronomy 

Molecular gastronomy is the art of creating textures, temperatures, palate feel and playing with multi-sensory gastronomy. It gives a new feel to prior explored flavours. Dastaan has recreatedfood-based fruity caviar to replicate the texture of faluda, and foams to form an airy texture to dense sauces and dehydrating fruits and vegetables. While carbon dioxide helps add bubbles and make foams, liquid nitrogen aids in rapid cooling of food and drinks. Then, the food dehydrator is the tool to cook up snacks, and lecithin – an emulsifier and non-stick agent – makes some drinks more interesting.